The Abbey hosts a nightly program for pilgrims. It begins at 8:30 with Compline and a blessing. I was sorry not to understand more than a few words of the Brother’s sermon because he had people chuckling so often. The 4 Brothers in attendance sang acapella and the acoustics amplified their sonorous voices.

At 9 there is a description of the Tympanum.

The Brother was quite the ham, acting it out with his body, changing his voice, inviting the audience to respond. It was entertaining even if I missed a lot of the French explanation. I got the gist.

Following this, musicians perform in the Cathedral. Amazing. This night were a flutist, cellist, and violinist. They also performed some acapella vocals that soared in that space and brought me to tears. The flutist also played piano, Clair de Lune. Splendid. Tried to upload video, but WordPress can’t do it…

Lastly, there’s a light show on the Tympanum. It had been painted way back in the 11th-12th C. Different areas are lit, highlighting various parts in their time. Here it is fully lit. Ed got a great shot.

All in all, it was quite an evening, a satisfying experience to end our Chemin – for now.

Other images of Conques…

Last year a friend broke her leg, mis-stepping on this bridge. After successfully maneuvering all those killer downhills… She and her husband are back this year to continue.

We spent a full day in Conques before catching a van the following day, the 27th, back to Le Puy, which felt like a large city after our countryside days.

Then we arrived in Avignon. I was ready to get back to the nature and quietude of the Chemin and fell into a mini depression, exacerbated by a flaming hot Achilles tendon. So Chemin out. My leg and ankle need the break.

Avignon today was grand, more on why, later. Bonne soiree!

They are voluable. Did I already mention that somewhere? They really like to talk and to laugh, to crack jokes, and engage in conversation with anyone. A boon for me, as they have also been very kind when I speak, try to speak, French.

Round or roundish glasses are in. I feel so out-moded.

There are either big spoons or quite small spoons. Big spoons are often used to eat cake.

The French are so dramatic. They’re not sorry, they’re desolated: Je suis désolée. They’re not bothered, they’re deranged: Ça me dérange. When they kiss the cheeks, there is often a loud smack of a kiss. Women will wear stylish scarves around their necks even in 90 degree heat. Which it was here in Avignon today, the 28th September.

They have a word that seems to be too nice for garbage. A trashcan is a poubelle.

I’m impressed with the number of small independent shops that survive in small towns as well as larger cities. Not a Dollar General or Dollar Tree to be seen. Thankfully.

France seems to have kept more of its manufacturing: linens, blankets (really thick wool), electric hand dryers ( that work really well)… Haven’t run across any bidets though….

I’m an admitted Francophile. Vive la France! 🇫🇷

Yesterday was our last day on Chemin. I have mixed emotions. On one hand, it’s exciting to be moving ahead with plans to visit other parts of France. On the other, I’ll miss the walking, the sights, running into pilgrims we’ve met on trail and exchanging news.

We had a short day yesterday after our grueling hike the day before. Fortunately, our stay in Senergues was delightful. An English couple had ditched life across the channel, bought a 3 level place (formerly a post office), and turned it into a gîte. They have just 2 rooms to let, and offer dinner and breakfast. Good thing too as the only café in town was closed. There is an epicerie, but it was closed in the afternoon.

Dinner was cooked by Julie of local fare. Delicious. We were joined by a Swiss couple, French speaking with some English. We had amiable conversations.

I loved our room.

Although we were late and the Tower of Senergues was past hours, the owner opened for us.

We were out early that morning and had a long walk before lunch. I was getting cranky, but held out for a good spot – ith Ed’s encouragement. Thank goodness! We rounded a corner and beheld this. It was a bit like Dorothy opening the door of her house after it settled in Oz.

And just across the street…

Leaving so early in the morning it was quite chilly and misty in the valley and over the Lot River.

There was quite a bit of pavement walking, which is generally not easy on the feet, but after trekking over so many rocks, it was a relief.

Lots of folks stopped in Galinhac, which made for a long trek for them into Conques. And the entry into Conques is – yes – steep and rocky! Ran into one guy we’d met a few times along the way and he was beat! So, it worked out for us.

In addition, the apartment we rented for our 2 night stay is on the top of the hill before the descent into the village! And it is oh so steep – even without pack the legs feel it.

Next year when we return to continue the Chemin, we’ll ship our packs from Conques to the next stop. No need to flagellate.

Here’s our place in Conques.

Clinton, from Canada, had to hit the road this afternoon. We’re meeting Jenny and Mike for dinner to celebrate the completion of her Master’s – with distinction!

More tomorrow…or the next day. Tomorrow we take a bus to Le Puy, then a train to Lyon, and then a train to Avignon. It’ll be a long day – with not enough walking!

A memorable moment today as we exited the bustling city of Espalion. Heading into the woods on a trail, we were heralded by an older woman, greeting us as pilgrims, telling us of her situation: husband dead, children far away, and she was trying to make a living. And I suspect, out to have an engaged life. She was selling her homemade goods: farçou (a chard fritter), a pomme fritter, crepes, and various cakes. We’d just bought food in the city for the day’s hike, but I couldn’t not get something. Plus, I wanted to try farçou. So, 2 farçou fritters and a pomme fritter to go – a euro each. I wanted to give her 4 euro, but she insisted on giving me change. I respect her spunk.

Some Pilgrim resting areas…

Another long haul tomorrow – 16 miles, after today’s 13. Going remarkably well! Off to bed…

Hiya. I’m done with the day by day format. I’m too behind. Why? Because as beautiful as this Chemin is,  and this part of France is, we’re finding it to be quite challenging.  Far more so than the Caminho Portugues.  The climbs are steeper and so are the descents. And the rocks! Good, great upheaval of the earth! My advice for anyone intending to walk the Via Podiensis is to have walking g poles, mostly necessary after day 6. Poles would really help on the rolling rock descents,  particularly in the rain which we did yesterday, from about 2:30 to 5. A heavy rain. Thank goodness we had a warm,  private room. More on accommodations later.

So that’s why I’m behind. I’m exhausted at day’s end.  Last night I opened WordPress with the intention to write and found my myself staring at the screen. So at 8:30, it was lights out, listening to a Bruno detective book, and asleep by 9. Slept well until 6:30 am!

So let’s catch up a bit anyway. Yesterday we walked through upper pasture. Cows in the distance and cows nearby. Miles of stone walls creating borders. There was one long, steep climb with buffeting wind that was especially memorable, for at the summit was a little cabin to rest out of the wind. And to eat an amazing French pastry.

Remember, I said rocky. Imagine how much manpower it took to clear the fields of those rocks and build the walls! Homes are made of stone here and even roofs.

Enough about rocks. Here’s a few shots of our misty, rainy, sunny, breezy, day. It was ever so changeable! Kept going from one to the other and back.

Fading… more tomorrow.

This is the tomorrow that I wrote of yesterday – and then didn’t publish!

Today began with a very fine drizzle that stayed with us for the morning. It never poured, it wasn’t windy, it was refreshing.

We are trekking through countryside with very few homes or even small villages. Infrequently, one farmhouse stands alone, miles from another.

We walked 17 miles today, the 20th, so time to pack it in.

After that stormy night, the day dawned misty, but soon cleared up.

It was a quiet walk through unpopulated terrain. Cows. Cattle. Pines. C’est très très beau, le paysage.

The past days the trail has been bordered by Spanish Broom, though a smaller version than what we have in NM. It seems stunted, but fuller. The blackberry brambles continue, but hardly any edible ones. Rosehips burst forth in vivid orange-red, brilliant against the greenery.

Must be beautiful in spring when roses and the Broom are in full boom. Bloom.

On the Caminho Portugues way markers were typically the yellow arrow or the blue and yellow scallop shell. Here in France, they are blazes of red and white. In the photo below you’ll see both, though the blue and yellow just showed up today.

I often pick up a small stone to carry with me as I walk. I think of loved ones and pray for them, imbuing the stone with the prayers. Then I leave it at one of the crosses.

In the small village of L’Estret we came across this kitchen. It’s in someone’s home. The fridge is stocked with cold sodas and fruit juices. There’s a variety of teas. Chocolate and biscuits. Coffee. Leave a donation. Relax. Replenish. Can you imagine? Are there still small towns in the States where one could do something like this? I’m truly in awe of French country life. And I know I’m romanticising some. But really. Hundreds – thousands of people walk by here and look how clean it is.

Okay. Long day tomorrow. Gotta get to 😴.

Arriving at the outskirts of Saugues, before entering the wooded trail, this carved statue sees you off.

The Auberge du Sauvage is dormitory style only. We had 6 beds in our room, a toilette and 2 showers just close by. I didn’t sleep well. Or so I thought. Then discovered the next morning I’d slept through a raging thunderstorm. I only heard one clap. I’m so sorry I missed it.

A plus the afternoon of arrival, weceere having a drink and struck up a conversation with a French couple. Oh, the power of alcohol to uninhibit the tongue. We had a long conversation about politics and social issues. In French! It was a blast. Vive la France! Vive le vin!

Lots of steep inclines and descents today, but not so daunting as they looked on the app. Thankfully,  lots of clouds scudding across the sky and stiff breezes to keep us cool when the sun shone.

Don’t judge me.

During the middle ages sometime  a beast roamed the area, killing 60 or so people. It was finally killed and brought to the King as proof – of its existence? Of its slaying… There’s  locally brewed beer in the area that goes by the name, La Bête.

Great dinner at our gîte, La Margeride. Salad, slow roasted beef in a delicious broth, rice, bread, 3 cheeses, wine, and a commercial pre-packaged ice cream cone. A good breakfast too – as in more than bread, butter, and jam, ie yogurt and granola. Although the French bread is typically so good, that it’s fine.

On to day 4….

Alliers is the river that runs through this part of France 🇫🇷. It’s said that salmon are very happy in this river.

It was another fabulous day of walking through beautiful countryside.  Not too hot, a cool breeze. And the air for a good part of the early morning walk smelled so sweet – like chocolate flowers. You may not have these flowers in your part of the world. They are a particular delight of Albuquerque.

The route has also been lined with blackberry brambles. Some are small and dried out,  but many are plump and succulent.  I stop frequently to avail myself of the bounty.

Alas, many of them are too high and beyond reach. Still, I’ve had a good share of them.

Some views from our hike…

Along with the tower,  this is what’s left of an ancient fortress.

There is a very steep decent from here, so we elected to backtrack a short way and come down along the power lines.

Our gite tonight, La Gite du Pont Eiffel, while providing a warm welcome,  didn’t provide much else. The food was decidedly not French. Stale bread, for one thing, and canned peas and carrots in mayo for another. The pasta bolognese was tasty. A Pilgrim had to walk through our “private room” to get to hers. Breakfast was more stale bread, jam, and margarine. Margarine! Well, it was a very small taste of “roughing it”, so what’s to complain about, really? The host was kind. The other two pilgrims were also.

And that’s it for today. Which is actually yesterday. But that’s all she’ll post today. We have a longer hike tomorrow, but with considerably less elevation, so more miles should be okay.

Bon soirée.