Haven’t posted for a few days. Yesterday morning, leaving the treetop bungalow, I tweaked my back as we moved the bed back into place. Some of you are familiar with my lower back issue. I don’t need to go into details except to say that each time it inflames, is better than the time before. It’s been about 3 years running – just once a year – so that’s a gratitude. But it kept me from walking in the afternoon yesterday after a long day of driving. And it kept me from sitting up and posting. Instead, I lay on an ice pack and watched a Denzel W movie on HBO. What a superhero! Early to bed after taking a Tramadol and I”ve been doing aok today!! Which reminds me to go to a Farmacia and see if I can buy more Trammies! OTC in Mexico, so maybe here as well.

Early morning to get to Poas Volcano for an 8 am tour to see the active crater. It was rather a bust as most of the area is closed due to fairly recent activity (October 2019).

The government website for this and a few other national parks for which you must create an account and purchase tickets in advance was most strict with its admonitions regarding arrival time for your tour. For an 8 am tour (earlier the better as the clouds may roll in) you must arrive 15 minutes prior! If you are 5 minutes late, you are bumped off the tour!

It also said the park was open at 7 am. We thought we’d get there early and have coffee and see the exhibit. Upon almost arriving at the park – 2 kilometers shy – a most official looking blockade stopped us.

Before long several cars queued up behind us. Finally some moved the blockade assuming the park staff had simply forgotten to. Ha! So we all drove up 2 kilometers to a closed gate to the park entrance. Hm. Park staff arrived just after 8 to open the gate. Then it was another 10 minutes for them to get on-line for checkin. Ya gotta just laugh about it.

On the other hand, it was another beautiful drive and walk up to the crater.

From the park we headed to a few smaller towns just for the hell of it. The thing is, when I read “small, picturesque town” my mind conjures something really small – like one main road and tienditas sporadically placed along the street. I imagine Panajachel or Tulum 30 years ago. What I encounter is a small city with traffic and people and congestion. Hell, even Tulum and Pana are not the small villages they were 30 years ago. Are any such left in the world? Actually, Nuevo Arenal comes close, being a small outpost of a town far from the raging commercialism of La Fortuna. I guess I miss those places and those days of days gone by. Again, gratitude that I experienced it.

Although the clouds in the above beach photos might have you thinking “too bad” it was truly perfect. Sun would have made it too hot.

I did want to leave you with a sunny image. And beautiful clouds. Wishing you sun and clouds and weather to soothe our soul.

This is just a collection of random photos that I have not, to my recollection, posted yet.

Paula has been keeping up with the blog postings for the last few days. Rather than admit to a basic level of laziness on my part, let’s just say that we were in beach country, which is Paula’ bailiwick. I figured that she would have more to say than I, but then, it’s beach country and Paula has a single minded focus when it comes to being in or around water, which is being in and around water. So we have both been silent for a few days, which leaves me in something of a quandary. How do I put my best foot forward when my best foot is still resting in the hammock?

Paula reminds me that I left something of an accusation at the end of my last post. I questioned how it is that GT, the worlds most renowned climate change activist, hates Ticos. I’ve been keeping one eye on developments in the political sphere while on vacation, and I happened to read portions of GT’s rant at the Davos gathering last week. In that speech she had wise words such as demanding that becoming carbon neutral is insufficient actions to curb climate change, and that we can not wait until there are technologies available to replace our current reliance on fossil fuels: only the immediate cessation of all carbon based fuel is an adequate response to the challenge. It must have been wise comments, since any adult who questioned the wisdom of her statements was accused of all sorts of crimes, including child abuse.

Costa Rica has based its economic development on two main industries. One is exportation of agricultural products: sugar, fruit, coffee, cocoa, etc. Another is tourism. Nearly half of all employment in the tourism industry. You can’t put your finger on the map without touching a national park, a nature preserve, private reserve or eco-resort. People come from around the world to fork over Dollars, Euros, Yen and Colones to experience the playland Costa Rica has become.

There is a large investment in alternative energy sources: wind, hydro, solar. Although I haven’t seen any electric cars, I’ve been seeing charging stations in some parking areas. I read last week that the country expects to be “carbon neutral” within 5 years, which will be a challenge given the number of internal combustion vehicles on the road. We were informed that reforestation is one of the major initiatives to achieve that end.

But Greta demands that this effort be cast aside. What we should do, instead, is let the economy of this country crumble. There should be no ships to move produce to markets. Airplanes should be grounded and the tourism trade should be abandoned. No more rental cars, airplane flights, motor boats, etc.

Let the Tico’s eat the papaya, piña, coconut and mangos. Let them drink the coffee and cocoa. They can live in the abandoned resorts and hotels. Just don’t let them have anything more than a subsistence level economy. It’s something they must do so that privileged children in the developed world can indulge their catastrophic visions.

Perhaps we should not pay so much attention to children until they have learned a bit more about the world and have something valuable to say.

Whoa. I didn’t mean to get all heated up like that. I think I will end this post, have another guaro and fruit juice, chill out and post again when I’ve calmed down a bit.

We left Monteverde on the 27th, arriving here in Montezuma later that day, which was yesterday. Why does it seem longer ago than that?

The drive down in the morning had some “pull over and take a photo” spaces.

Paved road all the way to Puntarenas, where we boarded a ferry to Parquea. We were one of the first on deck, right up front, positioned for easy exit. Or so we thought. It seems that the left side of the top deck goes last. “And the first shall be last.” Lordy.

Our Montezuma bungalow has a porch overlooking jungle and high enough to be looking down into part of the tree canopy. Howler monkeys abound and their round, gutteral, bark-like calls can be heard throughout the day, but particularly at dusk and dawn. Though last night in the dark and the rain they were quite vociferous. This morning I was awake at 5:30 and went onto the porch for listening and viewing. Quite a few were up in the trees, eating leaves and flowers or just sitting. Howler monkeys are known as the lazy ones because they spend 80% of their time lounging. I did manage to capture one on video. I’ll try and upload it, though I noticed that the tobaggan video didn’t make it. No —— Wifi connection too slow. Maybe another day.

I spent several hours in the Golfo de Nicoya today. Water is a perfect temp and the waves are fun to play in. Caught many good waves body surfing. I have no pics!

But, I do now have pics from the zipline canopy tour!

The photos can’t do justice to the experience. Such a sense of peace and a physical change of perspective. It opens something up inside. And it is over all too quickly. Five people in my group eshewed the tarzan swing, so others of us lobbied for a second time, to no avail. Yet, I get that sensation from other activities, as well. Dancing and ocean wave frolicking come readily to mind.

When I see the monkeys moving so lightly and delicately in the tree tops I wonder if they too take delight in being up so high. But then, that’s their mileu. Being on the ground would likely provide a sense of danger and risk.

Since leaving San Jose and staying in places away from towns and artificial light, I have hoped to see the night sky, brilliant with stars, especially on these past moonless nights. But we have had clouds every night. Still, no complaints when I can take a hike through the forest and have a view like this. Good night all and good views to you, too, whether they be of landscape or loved ones or beloved places.

Our host at the apartment we have rented in Montezuma, Costa Rica, told us this afternoon that it will not rain until may. It is now about 9PM and the sound of the rain on the roof is almost loud enough to obscure the calls of the howler monkeys in the jungle outside. Here is a photo to show how close we are to the jungle:

It was a nice drive from Monteverde to Montezuma. It took about three hours and included a steep downhill drive from the mountains to the coast at Punta Arenas.

In Punta Arenas we caught a ferry to Paquera, crossing the Golfo de Nicoya to the southern end of the Nicoya peninsula. about half way across the gulf we passed the Isla San Lucas, which was abandoned as a penal colony in 1991. We wrote last week about an exhibit at the Museo de Arte Costaricanse in San Jose, that included images from an archeological study of the penal colony on San Lucas. Here is what we could see from the ferry:

The road from Paquera to Cóbana is paved, sometimes with new asphalt, and at times with edge to edge potholes.  After leaving the port area we had to pass a number of large trucks that could barely make 10 kph up the hills.  But after that we did quite well.  At Cóbana we headed south along a gravel roads to our little apartment nears Montezuma. Dr. Google engaged in a bit of malpractice on this part of the trip, sending us down roads that had been washed out years ago, and circling around our final destination. A phone call to our host ended a significant frustration.

Montezuma is something of a hippie beach town, and is a twenty minute walk from out apartment, down a steep paved road. Our host advised us we should drive the first time we went to Montezuma to gauge whether we would feel comfortable walking up the hill. We, being good walkers, sneered at the notion and treked off blissfully unaware that he knew that of which he spoke. It wasn’t the steepest hill I’ve been on, nor the longest, but probably takes the prize for the longest steepest road I can recall.

Here are a few photos of what we saw in Montezuma:

After a grueling climb back up the hill, we sat on the patio, watching spider monkeys play in the woods and enjoying the sunset.

The rain is abating and the howler monkeys are howling again. It’s time for bed.

More later. Maybe I’ll get around to demonstrating why Greta Thornberg seems to hate ticos.

Green mountain. Cloud Forest. Green it is, as I have mentioned. Lacking in clouds, though, and that’s all right with me! Very fortunate to have had two beautiful days here for hiking and ziplining. I can post some photos from hiking, but the zipline experience will have to wait a bit.

We have a roomy casita here with a patio overlooking a running stream that burbles non-stop. Days are warm and nights are really cool. Approaching cold, even.

Yesterday we went to the Curicancha reserve for a stroll through the forest, hoping to see some wildlife. We even sprung to rent some binoculars. Alas, there was not much to be seen. A few aguti:

And we saw some hummingbirds flitting among the butterfly bushes. No butterflys though. We met a couple from Minnesota while hiking Curicancha and it turns out they are staying at the same place we are. This is their fifth time here in Costa Rica and they are staying in Monteverde for a month. They also told us about Valle Escondido as a must see, which we went to after Curicancha.

Some man from Boston with money to spare bought hundreds of acres and turned it into an ecolodge with an impressive set of trails and overlooks, some cantilevered into the side of the very steep hills. It offered some great views.

At one point in the hike, there is a short path to a hammock garden. A variety of swing and sleeping hammocks are provided around an opening and under trees for shaded peace and quiet and rest.

Once again, as with the hike to Cataratas Viento Fresco, we were in awe at what it takes to carve steps into these steep hillsides and provide cable or other material for handrails, whether rudimentary, as at Cataratas, or well-engineered , as at Valle Escondido. I like these natural handrails:

Yeah, now I’m just posting photos that I liked over the past few days. Oh! Here is a video of some locals tobagganing.

And, a few days ago, after hiking through Arenal 1968, I was a bad influence on a new friend.

And with that, I’m over and out. Sweet dreams, sweet days, sweet day dreams.

I think this is one of the greenest countries I’ve been in. And I don’t mean ecologically green, as is touted all over the place, yet they still provide plastic bags at the grocery stores. I mean the color. You’ve seen from some of the photos I’ve posted, the amount and size of plants. I’m also enamored of the hill and country side. It’s rolling and eye popping green.

I thought of the Alps and Switzerland and Ireland. Not that I’ve been to Ireland to know whether that’s an apt comparison.

We left sunny/rainy Arenal this morning for Monteverde cloud forest. It was pure sun as soon as we decended from Arenal. Along the way we took a side trip to Cataratas Viento Fresco. There are four waterfalls to hike to after a grueling drive on a very narrow one lane, potholed, twisty, steeply banked, rutted road. It was exhilerating, too. The first is Catarata Rio Serena.

The second is Catarata Escondida.

Another 200 meters gets you to Catarata Arco Iris. This fall plunges into a shallow pool, which you can enter. It’s about 2-3 feet deep and refreshingingly cool. There is also a strong wind generated by the falls. Standing in the water, a rainbow forms in a perfect arc in front of you on the water from the sun refracting the mist. The energy of this place made me laugh and shout for joy.

The last, Catarata El Tobagan, is quite a steep hike downhill – another 250 meters. The water glides over a wide swath of rock, slipsliding down. Here I received a great water shoulder massage. If water had fingers this is what it would feel like.

Important! If you find yourself going to Cataratas Viento Fresco, know that you must have cash. And if you’re a gringo, preferably dollars, $16.00 a head.

Thank goodness for 4 wheel drive. It came in handy on the drive from the waterfall area to Santa Elena, our town for the next few nights, outside of Monteverde. That drive was almost as bad! More potholes, but slightly wider, but not paved. Dusty! Can’t fault the beauty of the drive, though.

The hike, the water, and the drive wore me out. Hoping to get a spot on a zipline tomorrow. I wonder if I’ll be able to manage photos while careening through the forest on a cable. Stay tuned.

Paula is currently typing out a post about the last two days here in Nuevo Arenal. It has been really nice since the rain abated. Yesterday was not exactly sunny, but we spent a lot of time outdoors and did not have to dodge raindrops for more than a few minutes. Today we went on a forest hike and emerged from the jungle to our first experience of of bright sun since we have been in this part of the country. After a couple hours in the sun, I decided my new political slogan will be “Make America Sweat Again.”

Tonight I’ll mostly post photos without too much narrative. I’ve come to find that noone really appreciates my outstanding wit as much as I, so there will be no more of that.

Yesterday spent so much time out and about that neither of us had much energy to summarize the day. We started with another walk in the local forest, and I began composing my thoughts about another gray day of clouds and rain. Knowing it would be wet, we drove to a private reserve called Mistico which has a very well developed trail with a number of suspension bridges, some of which were above the forest canopy. We sprung a few bucks extra for a guided tour, which we were told would be in a group of ten people. However, after we arrived at the park we found that the group had already been filled so we were assigned a private guide, Alonzo.

Alonzo is a young man who has been working as a tour guide for thirteen years, and is currently a backup guide at the Mistico park. He was an impressive guide who was able to explain the habits of the forests creatures, the role of various plants in the ecosystem, and the evolutionary pressures affecting both plants and wildlife. He was able to show us spider monkeys, howler monkeys, several bird species, nesting bats and owls, snakes, various ants, bees, and the like. He used Paula’s camera to take some great photographs through the telescope he carried on the entire walk.

There were a few times, however, that I think he was exaggerating. For instance, when we mentioned that we had heard the howler monkey will throw feces at people who got to close, he agreed, and elaborated that several monkeys would do that, including the Foostiner monkey, whose poop supposedly has magical qualities, according to folklore, and being hit by their feces is considered auspicious. That is why most Costa Ricans understand that ………!

“But you promised!”, I hear you say. I’m not sympathetic, since you know I can’t be trusted.

Here are a few photographs from the park:

Leaf Cutter Ants are not grouped in army’s, but in Corps of Engineers. They bring the cuttings from the upper leaves of palm trees into their nest, where the leaves are coated with excrement and saliva to generate fungus that will feed the colony.

I apparently forgot to take any photos of the suspended bridges. I trust Paula did, so check out her post (“two good days”).

Today we went to the Arenal 1968 park that is adjacent to the Volcan Arenal National Park. This park is another private reserve that claims to allow visitors to get the closest view of the volcano since climbing in the national park is no longer allowed. The park is named for the 1968 eruption that destroyed a number of towns, including the original Arenal, the ruins of which are currently under the lake.

Visitors to this park can choose a trail over the lava field from the 1968 eruption, or take a forest trail that joins the lava field trail after a couple of kilometers. We did not see much wildlife, though we did hear some howler monkeys along the trail.

After the hike was completed, Paula wanted to swim in the lake, so we headed to the boat dock and finally got to see the lake in full color.

It was a great day to be outside. It was a great day to be alive.

More later.

After rain on Monday and Tuesday barely a drizzle yesterday and – Sun today! And a pretty good view of Volcan Arenal from the Arenal 1968 private reserve. I’ll start with a photo of that. We were so excited to see it and it looked promising that the clouds surrounding the tip might clear off, but in fact it got cloudier. But first, a few photos of the volcano.

A relaxing, casual 2.5 mile walk through jungle and over the lava flow from the 1968 eruption. In New Mexico, we’d call this the malpais. And in NM it does look more bad ass, bad lands. Here, with all the rain, the lava is softened.

At the park entrance are the usual restrictions, prohibitions, and list of creatures you might see: snakes, spiders, birds, caymans, sloths, howler monkeys. We saw birds – two different herons on Lago Pato – which is also where the caymans purportedly were. I very diligently kept still and peered up into foliage looking for sloths and monkeys. Nada. We did hear the howlers, but they sounded quite far away. Yesterday, at Mistico Hanging Bridges, we saw howlers, but did not hear them. I may have mentioned that we heard them on the trail through the woods near our casita. They are loud! We were informed that the males have an Adam’s Apple three times larger than a human’s. Thus they are able to amplify their calls.

We elected to take a guided tour at Mistico and were very happy we did. The guide was knowledgable and equipped with flashlight, binoculars, and a scope for ease of viewing. We saw a tarantula living in a hole in the side of the earth, just waiting for prey to happen by. We saw some birds through the scope we would not otherwise have been able to witness with such clarity.

Alonzo, our guide went through a solid month of training to be a guide here. Misitico is privately held land – 600 acres – that the family opened to the public 20 years ago. It must have taken 20 years before that to prepare it. The paths are paving stones; there are handrails; the system of suspended bridges is extensive. We marveled at the team of engineers it must have taken to create this wonder: civil, geo-physical, ecological… Workers are out cleaning leaves from the walkways at various points – not too many to be intrusive. Then there is the training and equipment that the guides have.

Following are some photos from the walk.

Charlie takes a lot more photos than do I, so go to his post for more.

I started out writing about today, so here are a few more photos from our leisurely hike.

Erg. I published and then went to check and my last paragraph was not saved. I may also have had a final photo. Is it WordPress or is it my Bluetooth keyboard?

I did want to report that I swam in Lago Arenal. Under the sun it was a clear green and cool, but not cold. And so clean! I was reminded of days by Lago Atitlan in Guatemala.

Got to watch the sun set behind the trees tonight and the bats come out. What a symphony of insect sounds surrounds us tonight. It’s nice enough to sit and write on the patio. It smells sweet and fresh. We are enjoying the just right amount of humidity. Even with all the rain, it’s not suffocating. I have been comfortable night and day. It’s clear why people would want to relocate here. And by here, I mean here in Arenal – for now. We’ll see what the rest of the country brings…

Hasta mañana. Big hugs.

After rain on Monday and Tuesday, barely a drizzle yesterday and – Sun today! And a pretty good view of Volcan Arenal from the Arenal 1968 private reserve. I’ll start with a photo of that. We were so excited to see it and it looked promising that the clouds surrounding the tip might clear off, but in fact it got cloudier. But first, a few photos of the volcano.

A relaxing, casual 2.5 mile walk through jungle and over the lava flow from the 1968 eruption. In New Mexico, we’d call this the malpais. And in NM it does look more bad ass, bad lands. Here, with all the rain, the lava is softened.

At the park entrance are the usual restrictions, prohibitions, and list of creatures you might see: snakes, spiders, birds, caymans, sloths, howler monkeys. We saw birds – two different herons on Lago Pato – which is also where the caymans purportedly were. I very diligently kept still and peered up into foliage looking for sloths and monkeys. Nada. We did hear the howlers, but they sounded quite far away. Yesterday, at Mistico Hanging Bridges, we saw howlers, but did not hear them. I may have mentioned that we heard them on the trail through the woods near our casita. They are loud! We were informed that the males have an Adam’s Apple three times larger than a human’s. Thus they are able to amplify their calls.

We elected to take a guided tour at Mistico yesterday and were very happy we did. The guide was knowledgable and equipped with flashlight, binoculars, and a scope for ease of viewing. We saw a tarantula living in a hole in the side of the earth, just waiting for prey to happen by. We saw some birds through the scope we would not otherwise have been able to witness with such clarity.

Alonzo, our guide went through a solid month of training to be a guide here. Misitico is privately held land – 600 acres – that the family opened to the public 20 years ago. It must have taken 20 years before that to prepare it. The paths are paving stones; there are handrails; the system of suspended bridges is extensive. We marveled at the team of engineers it must have taken to create this wonder: civil, geo-physical, ecological… Workers are out cleaning leaves from the walkways at various points – not too many to be intrusive. Then there is the training and equipment that the guides have.

Following are some photos from the walk.

Charlie takes a lot more photos than do I, so go to his post for more.

I started out writing about today, so here are a few more photos from our leisurely hike.

We also learned from Alonzo, yesterday, that sometimes what looks like a flower is actually a showy leaf, meant to attract pollinators and the flower comes out of it. Here’s an example.

And I’m over and out for the night, folks. Oh, I will report that I did swim in Lago Arenal; it was coolish, and comfortable. And very clean!

Tomorrow we are off to Monteverde cloud forest. It’s reported to be quite a bit cooler. And more lush, if that’s possible. We are enjoying the cool humidity. It’s not too hot and not too cool. It’s baby bear just right, even when it rains. Good night, Goldilocks.