Oh-la-la!

I couldn’t be this close to the Med, ie in Provence, and not buzz down to the sea. Then the realization – I was last here in 1978, or ’77. Which is it Laurie? Oh, the memories. Laurie and I had one piece bathing suits. We got to the beach and all the women were in bikini bottoms. Off we toddled to some cheapie store to pinch some bottoms of our own. Now we were properly attired for the French Riviera! We somehow managed to spend time on the beaches of Nice, Cannes, and Eze-Sur-Mer. We tried to hitchhike to St. Tropez, but gave up. Back then when you bought a Eurail pass for a month you could travel as much as you wanted to. Once we hopped on a train for a lark just to see where it would take us. Nowadays you have to choose how many travel days you want within a month – and pay accordingly. Time for a photo…

We are in La Ciotat, east of Marseilles. I opted for a smaller town, though it’s still plenty large. But we can walk to the old port, veille ville, and beaches in about 20 minutes.

Today we walked to Parc Mugel, with its sea vistas and tail end of the Calanques – steep cliffs rising from the ocean.

France is a rocky country.

And while this beach wasn’t big rocky, it wasn’t sandy. Though the ocean floor was incredibly fine sand.

The above two photos in Parc Mugel. As is the next one of a field of Sweet Alyssum.

Tomorrow we return the car in Avignon and the following day will find us on a train to Rennes, Bretagne, from which we’ll do some day trips. Rennes also sounds interesting, so stay tuned. Don’t touch that dial!

Roundabouts. Traffic circles. Ubiquitous in this area. I don’t think you can drive for more than 6 km before reaching one, and usually it’s more like 3 km. Some are quite large, small islands at an intersection of 2, 3, or 4 roads. Some are petit, barely a bump to maneuver around. They do keep traffic flowing. And if you’re not sure which exit, just go ’round again! I wonder I didn’t recall that aspect of driving here. And I remembered it as being much curvier than it is!

Random: Pillows here are square.

There is a river here: L’Auzon. My mom’s maiden name: Lauzon.

Yesterday we went to a restaurant in Chateauneuf-de-Gadagne, La Maison de Celou. We’d heard about it from two Irish women our first day in Isle sur Sorgue. We sat on the terrace overlooking town and valley. The entrée: pâte de foie gras. Oh my. So rich so creamy so decadent. Followed by the best cut of meat I’ve ever had.

And dessert of course. Didn’t eat anything for the rest of the day. It was enchanting.

That morning I went out shopping, thinking I at least needed a better top to wear with my skirt. I didn’t find anything. Really?! In France?! That’s right. Summer clothing was on the way out; slim pickings. At any rate, I wasn’t the only one there (besides Ed) casually dressed. The staff was friendly and welcoming- no pretensions.

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is actually an island surrounded by the River Sorgue. There are several water wheels along the river, which at one time were working water wheels. Now they are simply charming.

C’est tout, jusqu’à plu tard.

Today is Monday, October 2. We arrived Friday, the 29th. I was here 3 years ago mid September with my mom. We spent 2 glorious weeks in the area traipsing about. We were situated in a gite just outside of town, an easy drive into town and easy drives to so many beautiful villages. It was about 2 and a half years after my dad died. Now it is 3 years since my mom died. So many memories. I feel her energy and her spirit.

I’m sitting with my feet in the icy water. Dang Achilles tendon acting up. Plus, it just feels good.

Went to Gordes today, a medieval village on a cliffside. This area is not as steep and winding as the Dordogne, but it till has some impressive hillsides and it’s share of narrow roads.

We went to a fort/chateau that only opened last year. It was underwhelming. More of an art gallery now with an exhibit by Andrew Simone. Modern. Slashing, blocky colors. Can we get a refund please?

Other views

Wandering around town I happened upon a small café where mom and I had stopped for coffee.

On the way down the hill we took an unexpected side trip to Village des Bories, a cluster of stone buildings that encompass rudimentary homes, animal sheds, communal ovens… They are dry stone construction – no mortar used, just stones stacked. They are architectural feats.

They could have been constructed as early as 7th C or as late as 18th C. Or, constructed early and reconstructed over time. When people settle in an area, they do whatever they can/must to provide for themselves.

Our host had spoken highly of Fontaine de Vaucluse, a village in the area as very peaceful and a must go to as one sees the source of the Sorgue there. One may in springtime see the water gushing forth from the base of a really high cliff, but in autumn…no. Still, it was lovely and this late in season not over run with tourists. It was peaceful.

Now. Getting there turned into a bit of confusion. We were on the main road flying along when I spotted a sign for Fontaine de Vaucluse route touristic. We doubled back for it. Followed the signs until they stopped. Then Google maps was so confused it had us turning right where there was no street, turning wrong into a one way street. Good thing we know how to ignore bad directions. We did go through some sweet towns.

It was a good day.

I wrote that Avignon was grand. Partly due to the fact that we spent the day inside the ancient walled city where it is much quieter. Further, visiting the Palais des Papes was quieter yet within those massive stone walls. It took me back in history, while curiously also being completely in the present due to the use of a tablet for info and touring. Both impressive pieces of work of entirely different scales and nature.

Listed as a World Heritage Site by Unesco, the Popes’ Palace is one of the 10 most visited monuments in France with 650,000 visitors per year. A true symbol of the influence of Western Christianity in the 14th century, this 15,000m2 masterpiece of a monument is the largest medieval fortress and biggest gothic palace of Europe.

National Geographic: Built in less then 20 years starting in 1335, the Popes’ Palace is the amalgamation of two palaces built by two popes: Benedict XII, who built the Old Palace to the east and north, and his successor Clement VI who built the New Palace to the south and west.

I read somewhere that it takes an hour to go through the 25 rooms. We were there at least two hours and it passed by so quickly. I came outside and felt disoriented.

There was also a temporary exhibition by artist Eva Jospin. Phe-nom-i-nol.

There were several sculpted cardboard installations throughout, each stunning. I can’t even imagine how someone can conceive of such a thing, never mind being able to bring it to fruition.

Then, of course, we had to go Sur le pont, d’Avignon, and dance there, tous en ronde.

I’m heading across the street now to watch the locals play patanque. Known sometimes as boules and in Italian as bocci. The clicking of the balls is calling me.