Even without my back issue we had decided not to climb the Pyrenees. It was rainy and cold and if we were going to walk it, we wanted a view. An apartment had been booked in Biarritz in the Côte de Basque neighborhood. Last minute cancelation meant we had to pay the first night there. Charlie had to ask the hotel concierge if we could keep our room. She accommodated. One extra night there stretched into three. By then, the weather had turned clear and sunny and climbing the Pyrenees was tempting, but we feared stressing my back.

For some reason we then booked in Bayonne,  with plans for day trips to Biarritz and other locales.

Our first impressions of Bayonne were less than wonderful. Hot. Humid. Noisy. We couldn’t check into our apartment until 5pm and spent time at a laundry café – great concept actually.

The entry door and location to the apartment were dis-spiriting. There then followed hours of failed attempts to get the access code. The link to provide a credit card pre-approval wasn’t working. The management company didn’t answer the phone, trying to resolve the issue with a chat-bot.

I called Booking. Was told that Booking would call the company and if they didn’t respond in 30 minutes we would get a refund. Booking would call me back. Did they? F no. I called again, and after clarifying the situation, vehemently,  we finally got that booking canceled and a total refund. It was now close to 8pm.

While I was managing that situation, Charlie was looking for a hotel for the night. Thank God it had a dining room for dinner. I was spent.

Revived by dinner, I commenced a search for a place in Biarritz. Bayonne was out out out! But as we had time, checking out old town Bayonne was doable. Left our bags in the hotel the next morning and went to explore.

Matthew: Man/Angel – because he focused his gospel on the incarnation
Mark: Lion – his gospel equates John the Baptist as a roar in the wilderness
Luke: Ox – focus on sacrifice
John: Eagle – his narrative soars above earthly events. The opening lines are, “In the beginning was the word, and the word was with God, and the word was God.”

That’s all I got on Bayonne. So glad that apartment didn’t work out!!! Worth the hassle. Especially when we got to Biarritz. It’s beautiful! All flowery and gorgeous architecture and sea breezy. A coastline that’s on the Atlantic with awesome waves and seastacks and cliffs. I could live here.

It’s more affordable than you’d think here. I imagined Biarritz would be too ritzy. It’s not. Although you can find ritzy accommodations,  like the Grand Palais…

We had a wonderful dinner, seaside in the old port, for a mere 66.60€, which included an appetizer, two meals (tuna – a very generous and delicious piece and dorado), wine and one dessert. That price includes taxes and service.

Who wants to go in on an apartment? A little pied-a-terre in this seaside town, a short train ride to Bordeaux hence to the rest of France – or Europe!

Tonight, Saturday the 29th,  we attended a concert at St. Martin’s church.

The French are certainly an appreciative audience. Applause commenced as the chorus began walking in and continued until the last musician had arrived. Then at the end of the approximately hour long recital, applause continued until they played one of the themes again. More sustained applause. Oh, come on! Charlie says they just want to make sure they’re getting their money’s worth. No second encore.

We leave today, Sunday the 30th for…drumroll….Budapest! Ryanair gets us to Prague, where we spend 2 nights, then a 6 hour train to Budapest. We felt like we didn’t spend enough time there in 2022.

We’ll be eating beans and corn bread after this trip.

À plus tard…

We had hoped to see this being played here in SJPDP, as there’s a game every Friday and Sunday. Friday I was out of commission; today the game was canceled. Such a disappointment!

I’m walking! Back twinges almost gone. We ran into Laurence today after many days of not crossing paths. She recommended lots of water and a foot massage. I’m so lucky that Charlie obliged with the massage. I have been guzzling water. We saw a Korean pilgrim today that we had seen a number of times while walking. Stopped to chat and have a coffee. Asked about walking over the Pyrenees, I told her about my back problem. She took hold of my left hand and started applying pressure at different points. When I yelped at a certain one, she kept at it – digging in with the blunt end of a small horn from some animal. She told me to do it often myself. And to put my hands in warm water. She left to catch a train to Bayonne. As we hugged goodbye,  she pounded on my back. I clung to her. Lo and behold, it wasn’t long after I really started feeling much better! Yes, i did apply the technique myself and continue to do so. The Chemin provides.

I think the problem was that I limited my water intake while walking so I wouldn’t have to pee so much. Lack of water equated to back seizure. Lesson learned.

A little bit of sun this afternoon…

Tried a local Basque snack – croquettes chipirones…

I finally got to walk around the city today and take some photos. Was too caught up in the entry on Thursday and greeting fellow arrivals to take photos.

And that’s a wrap for today. Bises.

That is the name of the route we took. Last September we walked from Le Puy en Velay to Conques. This year we returned to Conques and walked to St. Jean Pied de Port. We left Conques on May 21 and arrived SJPDP on Thursday,  June 20. The total distance is 453.6 miles. Here’s a map:

We had rain, mud, lots of sunshine, greenery and flowers, wooded paths, and toward the end a lot of asphalt, cows, donkeys, horses.

There was one band playing at a restaurant near us for summer solstice and la fête de la musique. I couldn’t go, but could hear it just fine from our room. It was an oom-pa band playing 60s top hits. I didn’t recognize any songs.

I was able to go out to dinner tonight after eating only peaches and yogurt all day. And now I’m ready for sleepy-byes.😴

It’s been a glorious walk (~ 345 miles – 26 walking days, 5 rest days) with beautiful country, architecture, and people. You can see how architecture has changed again now that we’re in Basque country. A few more examples:

Here’s a view from our Gîte, last one on the Chemin.

They are from the Perigord/Dordogne region of France where we spent a week last September. The middle one, Caline speaks English very well. Aurelia and Marianne don’t. So it was a good mix of French for me and English for Charlie. They kind of adopted us. We had a celebratory dinner together last night. Oh! For those who read, have read, the Martin Walker Bruno detective series, Caline’s family owns the Cave (wine store) that is mentioned in the books. She knows Martin Walker well! I’d love to return there and visit them. Maybe even meet Martin!

Now that I’ve had more of the communal Gîte experience, (which we had far less of in Portugal), I more fully comprehend the allure of walking The Way. There’s energy and relationship built with other walkers as you meet in various gîtes, while walking, paths crossing over time and distance. The age range from 20s to late 70s, maybe even early 80s. One guy has been on the Chemin for 2 months. Starting point – his home in Belgium. It took 2 days just to walk through Paris. He’s going to Santiago.

We had our own room, shared bath, and communal dinner.

I love how the memento on this tomb provides such a strong sense of the person.

We came into St. Jean Pied de Port strong. There were happy greetings with people we’d met along the way, some continuing and others not.

The next morning I reached for something and my lower back seized. The worst since the first time it happened 10 or so years ago. Of course we’d just booked train tickets to Biarritz and an apartment there.  I could hardly walk. Any movement caused pain. I took an oxygen and went to sleep certain that would take care of it. No go. Got worse. By 5 pm I knew there was no way I’d be able to walk the next day. I managed to get a prescription for muscle relaxant and tramadol. Still in pain the next morning (this morning!) Found some gentle exercises on YouTube. All of it together has helped. Walking is still hard. I feel and look like an old lady. But. I’ve been able to sit outside and get this done. So. We’re here for another 3 nights.

The Camino provides. Boy howdy. The good the bad the beautiful the ugly. Mostly the good and beautiful, though. What a strange ending/beginning.

That flaky, almond paste filled delectable pastry was a great energizer mid-morning (June 15).

We made our way from Arzacq-Arrazigueta to Pomps – the one French word where all the letters are pronounced,  even the s. But we didn’t stay in Pomps, we went another few miles to Morlanne, yet another of Frances’s prettiest villages. There’s a 14th c chateau,  but it was closed for construction.

There’s a 13th c church with a painted apse.

We have stayed in some old farmhouses and some more modern homes. I have to say that I’m quite the voyeureuse, enjoying the opportunity to see inside others’ homes, to be surprised and delighted by what is prepared for dinner. 3-4 courses prevails. Last night a brothy soup with carrots, zucchini, garlic, leek, white beans. Sounds heavy, but it was light and flavorful. Greens with a slice of duck paté- really good paté lo. Duck breast with the tastiest potatoes, fried in duck fat. Crêpes with light brown sugar inside and apricot confiture. Dang, I shouldn’t be writing about it – 2 hours till dinner!

Here’s tonight’s digs:

I don’t get to see much of this interior- just the Gîte part. Which is the difference really between a Gîte and a chambre d’Hote. Gîtes are more shared room or your own room, but like a dormitory. In a Chambre d’Hote you have your own room in someone’s home. Sometimes with shower in the room, toilet not. Usually, both are out of the room. It’s just a bedroom in a home, after all.

Tonight we are in a room with 2 bunk beds and it’s all ours.

This Gîte also has “roulettes” – kind of like sweet little gypsy cabins for 1 person. Definitely no shower or toilet within.

Today was sunny, hot, and clear. The Pyrenees reappeared after hiding behind clouds yesterday.

Here’s more info on why some village signs are upside down.

Farmers are turning the signs upside down as a form of protest. The movement began in the Occitane region and has spread throughout the country. It’s to call attention to the topsy-turvy world of paradoxical government interference and regulations: don’t use certain fertilizers, but grow enough food to make France food independent; pay your farm labor more, but keep food prices down. These are just a few examples of the tortuous, left hand doesn’t know what the right hand is doing. Moreover, ridiculous rules are being made by bureaucrats who have zero knowledge of the realities of farming – or of managing a regular life. They’re just fat cats living large who think they know what’s best. A lot of French people are tired of the malarkey. Hence, the vote on June 9th that put Macron’s government on notice. Even with my limited French, I can discern that much.

On to something completely different. Architecture has changed…

There’s a concert at the local church tonight, about 3/4 mile away. I thought I’d go, but now I see it’s too late. And man, even not carrying the big pack, after walking only 10 miles, I’m tired. Food would help. Hoping dinner is at 7, not 7:30.

I’ll close with this hedge of voluminous hydrangeas.

We are again the only English speakers at a good size gite. I love hearing everyone speaking, but it is challenging to keep up and engage. That’s part of the reason I like chambres d’hôtes. They’re smaller and you often get to dine and converse with the hosts, and one or two others. It’s manageable. And more enjoyable.

So much for closing. Now, I’m done. A plus tard!

Leaving Aire-sur-l’Ardour- 1st glimpse – I was so excited!

Sights in Aire-sur-l’Ardour from today. Didn’t take any photos yesterday. We elected to have a quiet meal in our room. Found a boucherie open (for some reason most restaurants etc are closed here on Wednesday. France – where businesses make their own rules. C’est bon.)

The Sainte Quitterie (b. 4thC) cathedral is beautiful. She, of course,  was matyred for not renouncing the faith.

Pretty easy walking today, after a steep climb out of town. Then down by the River Ardour, which is dammed. Fishing ok, but not bathing.

Walking today, aside from being fairly level, and along quite a bit of pavement, was really comfortable temp-wise. A sweet cooling  breeze, sometimes with a bit of iciness to it. Another reason to be grateful to be here – and not in NM.   Right now, anyway.

Our place tonight is a dream. It’s the kind of place you might see in a travel magazine and wish to go to.

We have decided to ship our packs for the remainder of the trip. What a relief I felt with that decision made. It was difficult. I wanted to believe I could carry my pack some more. Reality bites. The foot bone connected to the ankle bone, the ankle bone, connected to leg bone… 🦵 😅

Good night!

That’s been a refrain for days. Somehow we always seem to walk longer distances. Granted, if there’s an interesting diversion, we take it… OK. We’re to blame. Sometimes it’s a missed waymarker – like today, but it was only a block or so out of the way. Yesterday, it was a pilgrim telling about an ancient inn and medieval garden – historic! Impressive! Oh, it just adds a few kms, we’ll never be here again, might as well.

Another US reminder:

An astute pilgrim noticed something missing…

Meditative sights

While we still have some luscious walking in forests, since Moissac,  there has been a lot more walking in fields and more pavement.

2 pilgrim areas of repose today:

Tonight we are in an old hotel. We bought food at a boucherie – divine paté, tabouli, and wine, bread and ate in. Needed a break. It was a tiring day of at least 17 miles. My right foot, even without the full pack, gets clumsy. What a word- clumsy – it sounds like old English.

Anyway, time for bed.

Beaux rêves.

June 10 and Ed’s/Charlie’s 74th birthday. We toasted him with Armangnac tonight.

It was an easy peaceful day, truly restful. Only 10,500 steps! About 5 miles. We did laundry. Groceries. Lunch for the road tomorrow. I got our itinerary straightened out – rooms booked, canceled – because, oh no, the Gîte is actually in a town 5 miles from our intended point, and rebooked. Got Transport Claudine worked out for the next three legs. Just got to. Malle Postale who we used in the past, stops at Lectoure.

We did go to a small museum displaying artifacts from ancient paleolithic times and Roman treasures discovered nearby.

Can you imagine… You receive word that invaders are coming. You hide your loot, intending to return for it. But you don’t or can’t.  Maybe you didn’t survive the siege. Maybe you survived  but can’t return. Thousands of years later, by happy accident, a trowel displaced some dirt, some rock and … behold!

3 photos of ancient Éauze:

Great apartment, except no windows that open.

I just fell asleep 😴,  so it’s to bed!

It’s so easy to get behind. Should I start at leaving La Romieu and go forward, or start with today and go back?

Today: a wicked rainstorm last night – thunder, lightening, torrential downpour. Which meant flooding today.

But it made for cooler walking in lovely misty rain as we made our way to Seviac, a variant from the Chemin, that brought us to amazing Roman ruins, discovered in the 1800s by a farmer building his home.

A concise story about the wealthy owner, his grand home, and lifestyle. This would have been the country home. Heated. Thermal tubs. A church. Baptismal fount – think large for full immersion. 

Along the way:

I also saw my first ever live hedgehog,  although it was dead – a victim of drowning, I believe. Ever so cute.

Condom – the first city in France that I/we did not like at all. Though we did appreciate this bit of local political view (using Google translate, screenshot)

And I liked this artwork…

Had a fine dinner last night (June 8) with Katrine and Pierre, with whom we have been crossing paths for days,  always having a bit of a chat. More French practice for me! And great to learn of their knowledge of the covid cover-up and political corruption. Marilyn and Michel (La Fezendes) also expressed distress over unelected powerful people making rules for the rest of us, but not for them.

A lot of folks we have met day to day and had conversations with are leaving the Chemin about now. In France, it’s common for friends to get together and walk a part of it – for 7-10-12 days. Then return the next year to pick up where they left off. C’est chouette! And a lot easier for them to do it that way than for us.

BTW, walking distances, you depend on the guidebook, on maps, on a wing and a prayer maybe…but, the distances are always longer, never shorter.

May your nights be long on sleep and peaceful dreams.

For the past 3-4 days we have been hearing gunshots. What’s in season – rabbit? Nothing. Hunting season is October through March. We’ve been hearing compressed air blasts. Farmers use them to keep birds away from the newly sewn crops. How do I know? A little birdie told me. [Groan) Marilyn and Michel at La Fezendes told us.

Bird calls, chirps, song have been with us every day, through forest and filrd and village.

We often hear the coucou bird. This has given rise, in this area, to the greeting,  “Coucou!” It’s also used to get someone’s attention.

Walking, we never fail to see and smell banks of wild roses, honeysuckle,  and jasmine. It does a soul good on a hot, humid day while you’re laboring up a steep hill.

On a different bank topic, we’ve found that Banque Populaire is the best for ATM. They don’t charge a fee. Others are 10-12%.

Today was such a humid day. Blessedly, there’s often a breeze to help.

At the end of a significantly steep grade of a climb, I launch into the Rocky tune. That occurs at least once a day.

Today – nothing hurt!! And we reached our halfway point between Conques and St. Jean Pied de Port at about 4 km into the day!

It’s already 22:20 here. The days disappear when you’re walking town to town.

We had a grand meal, thanks to our host calling and making a reservation for us. These towns of 500-2000 or so have limited dining possibilities. La Romieu, tonight’s town, has a population of 555.

La Romieu has the remnants of a collegiate church, flanked by two towers. Of course we climbed them. One is only open a short way up. The other has about 140 very narrow steps up a circular staircase.

In 1342, multiple years of bad harvests culminated in famine, to the point that pets were eaten. (Did they have pets back then?) Anyway, a story says that young Angeline saved two cats from being dinner. The next year an abundant harvest was threatened by rodents. Thanks to Angeline’s cats, disaster was averted. A local sculptor honored this tale by sculpting multiple cats and placing them around town.

Leaving Lectoure on 6.6:

Today we go to Condom. Go ahead and snicker.