It’s been a glorious walk (~ 345 miles – 26 walking days, 5 rest days) with beautiful country, architecture, and people. You can see how architecture has changed again now that we’re in Basque country. A few more examples:
Here’s a view from our Gîte, last one on the Chemin.
They are from the Perigord/Dordogne region of France where we spent a week last September. The middle one, Caline speaks English very well. Aurelia and Marianne don’t. So it was a good mix of French for me and English for Charlie. They kind of adopted us. We had a celebratory dinner together last night. Oh! For those who read, have read, the Martin Walker Bruno detective series, Caline’s family owns the Cave (wine store) that is mentioned in the books. She knows Martin Walker well! I’d love to return there and visit them. Maybe even meet Martin!
Now that I’ve had more of the communal Gîte experience, (which we had far less of in Portugal), I more fully comprehend the allure of walking The Way. There’s energy and relationship built with other walkers as you meet in various gîtes, while walking, paths crossing over time and distance. The age range from 20s to late 70s, maybe even early 80s. One guy has been on the Chemin for 2 months. Starting point – his home in Belgium. It took 2 days just to walk through Paris. He’s going to Santiago.
We had our own room, shared bath, and communal dinner.
I love how the memento on this tomb provides such a strong sense of the person.
We came into St. Jean Pied de Port strong. There were happy greetings with people we’d met along the way, some continuing and others not.
The next morning I reached for something and my lower back seized. The worst since the first time it happened 10 or so years ago. Of course we’d just booked train tickets to Biarritz and an apartment there. I could hardly walk. Any movement caused pain. I took an oxygen and went to sleep certain that would take care of it. No go. Got worse. By 5 pm I knew there was no way I’d be able to walk the next day. I managed to get a prescription for muscle relaxant and tramadol. Still in pain the next morning (this morning!) Found some gentle exercises on YouTube. All of it together has helped. Walking is still hard. I feel and look like an old lady. But. I’ve been able to sit outside and get this done. So. We’re here for another 3 nights.
The Camino provides. Boy howdy. The good the bad the beautiful the ugly. Mostly the good and beautiful, though. What a strange ending/beginning.
Shared Illusions 
Paula –
Great photos and writing! I hope your back returns to normal quickly! Congrats on reaching SJPP – what a journey!
Bruce
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What a grand achievement, Paula and Charlie. This last entry made me tear up, once again. And I’m feeling your back pain, Paula. Sending good thoughts!
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It was a beautiful trip in many ways! So pleased we returned. It went by too fast! How’s Mérida? Greetings to Catherine.
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Ouch! Back pain! But, you got there! I guess you will not be walking over the Route Napoleon into Spain. Congratulations! Did you notice how the people who have walked into St. Jean look different from those all fresh and just starting out? For many this is the starting point, but when you walk from Le Puy, it is a landing place, and you’re no longer fresh and new, in fact you may really be done and all in! Get some well-deserved rest! Think about Bayonne compared to Biarritz. We liked Bayonne better — quaint and less touristy, but some lovely old buildlngs. Although Biarritz has the sea. Enjoy the rest of your time, and we’ll be happy to see you back home in a couple of weeks?
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It seems that people arriving from Le Puy look pretty happy. There were so many reconnections and smiles. The street was thronging with folks on Thursday afternoon. Lots of tourists too. Getting plenty of rest. Doing some gentle exercises that help a lot. Taking a nice slow walk today. Will take info re Bayonne and Biarritz into consideration. I do love the sea. Will definitely see both. Home on 16 July.
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it sounds like you have encountered everything you would and could encounter. Definitely a journey of many levels.
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Indeed. An inner journey as much as it is physical. A feast for the senses!
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Paula, What beautiful sights you’ve shared as you and Charlie are winding up the trek. These last towns and villages continue to delight the senses with the classic architecture, cobblestone streets mixed with muddy roads, warm and welcoming lodging, and your smiling faces makes statement of a well worth the time trip. I must admit envy that my experience of France is vicariously only, but your posts have taken we who followed these pics and writings along. Bravo dear friends!
John
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You are a good friend, John, and we’re glad to take you along, if only vicariously. I can’t say I loved every minute, but I did love 99.5%.
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Omg I love how small the world can be sometimes, I can’t believe you met someone related to the Cave wine store! And especially th
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Crazy, right! Your comment got cut off…
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Perhaps a magic class at Hogwarts is in order for you and your back. I’m sure the perfect wand is awaiting you!
P.S. Esther is in ABQ. Haven’t met up for ping pong yet. Hope to this coming Thursday. We miss you!!!
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My back is back! Post soon with details
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Korean magic. And drugs.
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