We have left the countryside of sheep goats,  and cows for farms. Acres and acres of wheat, sunflowers (newly growing), garlic (being harvested today, the 4th June and smelling oh so good and made me hungry!), alfalfa, soy beans, rye, and I don’t know what else.

Yesterday was a really flat day of walking from Moissac to Auvillar a long way along a canal. Thought it would be easier, but it was actually more tiring. I think the body responds better to changes in elevation.

Some sights:

Our Gîte here is a 15thC building – in far better shape than the one where we stayed in Rennes last fall.

This Gîte washed and dried everyone’s clothing – no charge. That’s a first. We were also treated to an aperitif, Floc de Gascogne, a vin de liqeur fortified with Armangnac. It was lightly sweet. I’ll take my Armangnac straight, thank you.

At dinner I sat next to a voluable man, Don, from South Africa. We’ve run across one another the past two days. He likes to tell you the languages he speaks, where he’s been,  where he’s going, and what to expect – as he did this same Chemin last year – a few times!

After Auvillar, we walked through St. Antoine:

And Flamarens:

Yesterday, the 4th June,  we walked Auvillar to Miradoux. We arrived early and so had a beer ( okay, 2, but they were each half pints), bread, and cheese while waiting for our Gîte. Laurance joined us for a bit and I got to parler français  with her. It was a good warm-up for the evening with our hosts. We were their only guests and so I had quite the time – three hours of listening to and responding to French.  We covered all kinds of topics and I really enjoyed it! When we are at a Gîte with lots of French speakers, it’s too hard.

It was a wonderful stay!

Today, June 5, was another pretty easy day of 10 miles past more acres of farmland. It was hot, but with a cooling breeze, so not bad. Until…arriving at our destination, Lectoure. A steep grade up. And when you thought you’d arrived at the top, more up to get to town. I’d much rather go up than down though. Down is hard on the knees and feet.

Tonight we are not dining with others at our Chambre d’Hote. Taking some down time. Tendinitis is getting a little inflamed… It’s nice and cool in our room. And I think I’ve come to a stopping place.

A plus tard!

I was sitting in the garden of our Chambre d’Hote this afternoon looking over next stages of walking. I noticed a bird finding lots to eat. Big pieces of something. I soon discerned that it was cherries. An almost denuded (of cherries) tree was just overhead.

Then I recalled an incident earlier on our trek. An old man getting our attention…I didn’t understand at first. But his motion of fingers to mouth and pointing to his yard had me listening carefully. I heard, “Viens! Cerises! Cherries! Into his yard we went and commenced to plucking g cherries 🍒 from his tree. What a sweetheart!

Today in Moissac at Sunday market glistening red strawberries 🍓! This area is renowned for them. Natural. Untreated. Tasty. Vibrant. We ate the pint toute de suite!

For our ‘rest’ day we walked 9 miles. No packs, except from our Gîte of last night, 2.5 miles outside Moissac. Our host in Moissac was kind enough to welcome us at 9:30 so we could stash our packs for the day. (In fact, our room was ready and we got keys to come and go as we pleased. Returning around 3, pilgrims were sitting outside waiting to get in at 3:30.) Our host, Veronique is so kind. Then around the market. Then to see the boat canal and back.

The canal connects the Atlantic and the Mediterranean  – no longer in use since the train.

We are now sitting outside the Cathedral and Abbaye St. Pierre. It’s massive with a beautiful cloister area, each of the 76 capitals atop the columns has a unique decoration. More than half depict episodes from the Bible (Samson in the lion’s den) or saints. The others are decorative – palm leaves for instance.

Which reminds me – wanted to hear the nuns sing inside the Cathedral for Vespers,  but it turned into a procession outside. So. We’re here having a drink instead.

Time to return to the Chambre d’Hote for dinner!

I last posted in Cahors. Since then we’ve stayed in Granèjouls, Montcuq, Lauzerte, and right now we are just outside of Moissac. We arrived at the early hour of 2:45! A 12 mile day makes such a difference. And we are the only ones here, so I finally have time.

Tomorrow night, we’ll stay in Moissac, taking a rest day before heading to Auvillar on Monday,  June 3.

The two nights before last we were asleep by 9:30. After full days of walking, exploring a bit, showering,  and having dinner, plus using my brain to speak French, we’re pretty exhausted. Last night though was a party. There were 18 of us at Gîte La Ferme Parry. The hosts like to provide a proper many course meal, though in a down to earth manner. We started with aperitif of either kir or whiskey. Red wine with dinner, tea and eau de vie after dinner. We had soup, duck rillettes, which is OMG delicious, pasta, duck sausage, cheese, and fruit salad for dessert. Bread, bien sur. Rillettes is shredded whatever, in this case duck and prepared I don’t know how. But I plan to find a recipe. La Ferme Parry is a working farm, specializing in duck and various fruits. There were some English speakers there, so that helped Ed. Me too,  tbh. We didn’t get to bed til after 11. I slept deeply and soundly.

In Granéjouls we stayed in an older woman’s grandfather’s house. She lives next door in a converted barn. She must be in her late 70’s herself, at least. Very friendly and a singer, as a hobby, but a retired pharmacist. She sang for us at breakfast  – microphone and music accompaniment, via computer. She also provided the tradional menu complet of entrée of a piperade tart, main dish of cassoulet, cheese course and dessert, which was croustade au pomme.

Most places have put on some great meals, even when cooking for many.

In Moncuq, we stayed at Gîte Soulleilou, which is the Occitane language for little sun. I thought it was a play on soul+sun+ou, a mélange of French and English. The living area was very comfortable. Upstairs in the bedroom the smell of citronella was strong. I opened the window wide for fresh air. I can’t abide citronella!

Moncuq is a dear small town, about 50% French and 50% Brits and Dutch, we were told by the Irish owner of Restaurant le 6. We stopped by there for a drink and dinner (eschewing the pilgrim dinner at the Gîte) after touring the town. I had such a good glass of wine 🍷 that I had a second.

On the way to Moncuq:

In Moncuq:

I think it was somewhere along this day that my long toe was hurting – to the point that I fantasized about having the tip surgically removed. It’s ridiculously long! But then it stopped hurting. So. Aches just seem to move around the body. They dissipate and take up residence elsewhere.

Yesterday on the way to Lauzerte, we saw some beautiful fields of flowers and wheat.

In Lauzerte:

Seen on the way to the Gîte:

I’ll close this with these 2 photos:

We’ve hiked with and shared meals, and sometimes lodging, with this group for two days. We’ll likely not see them again as they all hiked into Moissac and we’re staying 4 kms outside of it. Plus which, we’re staying in Moissac tomorrow night. They’ll be long gone. New acquaintances will be made and lost. Life on the Chemin…

Bonne soirée! !