If you’ve heard anything about Arles, it’s that Van Gogh lived here for two years. There are a number of photo plaques around the city placed where he painted a scene.

There is also an arena here. “The Greeks founded Arles in the 6th century BC and Julius Caesar established a Roman colony here in 46 BC. Arles prospered under Roman rule. Constantine the Great named Arles the second capital in his empire in AD 306. It wasn’t until 1481 that Arles was incorporated into the kingodm of France.” (from Sacred Destination s website)

Today, May 30, we took a local bus to Saintes-Maries de la Mer for a dip in the Med.

“Legend has it that Marie Jacobé, the aunt of Jesus, and Marie Salomé were washed upon the shores of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer when they arrived from Palestine in the first century AD, thus giving the town its name. When she heard that their children were being killed, Sara, their servant, vowed to protect the gypsies of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer and in consequence became their patron saint.” (from France This Way website)

The gypsies make a pilgrimage there once a year in May to honor her. It was last weekend. Leaving the church, a woman handed me a card with a photo of Sara and a prayer on the back. She asked for money.  I gave the card back.

It was a pristine time at the beach. Cool breeze, the sea unexpectedly cold, clear skies and water. The sea was placid and shallow for quite a ways out.

The town was tightly packed with tourist shops and lots of tourists.  It was putting me out of sorts. Also because it was hot and close. A mint chocolate chip ice cream helped. Once we left the glut and got to the sea, my world was set to rights.

Now, if you’ve wondered why we didn’t walk from Saint-Gilles to Arles… We didn’t want to. Our commitment was to walk La Régordane. The route to Arles is flat, hot, and un

inspiring. We may be pilgrims (of a sort), but we are not penitents.

They also came in handy as drying racks.

We have access to a washer, which ostensibly is also a dryer. It’s not very efficient. I ended up hanging things rather than wait for the dryer.

A few final photos…

Adieu.

Hello stalwart readers! We made it to Saint-Gilles du Gard yesterday the 28th. What a long, flat, hot slog it was. 17 miles. I spent a good portion of it creating senseless,  but fun (to me), descriptions to a cadence chant from the army. No way I can duplicate it here, so you’ll just have to remember to ask me for a sample when I get back.

Yesterday,  we walked through miles of vineyards and orchards: apple, peach, apricot.

Close to Saint-Gilles we met pilgrim Calum, Scottish but born in Bruges, Belgium because his dad was Catholics, his mom Protestant and they couldn’t marry in Scotland so they moved. True love. Having a new companion helped the last few miles slip by. Calum said he was really tired and we helped him, too.

Here are a few pilgrim makers new to us, and the first sighting on this trip of the traditional one…

Oh, and this dual version:

We also saw stencils on many homes.

Last night i fell asleep before even beginning a post. Tonight, while writing it. So, I’ll have to sign off until tomorrow. 

This will be a short post tonight.  After two days of rest (which amounted to twenty miles of walking through Nimes checking out the various high points of the city), we headed off to complete our hike of the Chemin de St Gilles.  We will catch up on the Nimes visit in the next few days.

The trail today was mostly (read almost all) on pavement.   As for me,  three was nothing of note on the trip except

1. It is the last stage of the Regordane, and
2. There was not a generator factory in Gènèrac.
3. New shoe insoles make a big difference when walking on pavement.

Paula will have a different perspective and will uploading her observations soon.

Here is today’s graphic.

If you wish to see the recap video,  the link is here.

This is the endpoint of the Chemin, Abbatiale Saint-Gilles du Gard.

Here are a couple of happy,  if not relieved, people marking their arrival at the Abbey. 

We celebrated the completion of our journey with another great meal at our hotel.

I was trying to get a photo of the scores of swallows flying around.   Here is Paula very pleased with herself for successfully photo bombing the occasion.  Yes, that is an umbrella hat, worn by all the fashion conscious pelerins.

Tomorrow, we head to Arles, which is thirteen miles away.  However,  the phrase “you can’t get there from here” is operative here.  Tomorrow is the Fete de le Ascention, which is a big deal here so there is no public transportation available.   if there was public transportation,  it would take two hours and three modes to get there.   We have been both encouraged to and dissuaded from walking there and we decided to pay 50 Euros for a taxi.

We will have more time for composing more stories  tomorrow evening

More later.

This is one of the more historical cities I’ve been in. The Roman’s had a huge presence here. Roman name is Nemausus, after the water god dwelling in the natural spring that feeds this place it’s water. David Burns, Water Flowing Underground,  comes to mind.

There’s a fully intact amphitheater here – some gruesome acts took place (prisoners forced to fight to the death of one; prisoners tied to a post while a wild animal tears into him; two animals chained together and fighting it out), and also some exciting gladiator combat. I was surprised to learn of the many different gladiators there were and if their attire and wespons.

Again, a Roman Temple,  still standing in astonishing good shape.

A few symbols:

That’s part of the wall that surrounded the ancity of Nemausus. There were ten city gates, of which two remain (partially). It’s not a bad climb up 140 steps for a long g view of old and new Nîmes.

I don’t know how the rest days here went by so fast and we stayed up so late, too. Tomorrow we walk with packs to Saint-Gilles. And now I lay me down to sleep.

May you all be well.

I was too tired after our 19 mile trek yesterday to think. At one point I declared that I was NOT going to walk 17 miles from Nîmes to Saint-Gilles, not realizing that I was already engaged in a 17 mile walk, that became 19 somehow and to Saint-Gilles will “only” be 15.

Maybe our host Thierry had something to do with it. He’s very appreciative of where he lives and all it has to offer within short distances. One of which we just had to see and it was a 7 minute walk from the house and he would take our backpacks to a meeting point in his car, join us on the walk, and then drive us to a Chemin starting point. It would only add 30 minutes to the day. HA!

Thierry offered to drive us two towns over to make up time, but we were committed to the walk. A boulangerie in Dions was not too far for sandwiches. However, no sandwiches on Sunday.

Hoof it to La Calmette where a Lidl would be open til noon thirty. Arrived at 12:28. Closed. It actually was not bad hiking without lunch. Thierry and Catherine had provided us with a more than ample breakfast. Thierry also loaded us down with a small jar of his fait maison confiture and a small bottle of his fait maison rhum arrangé, a digestif.

This long long lonely road went on and on and on. Quite a bit of gradual elevation gain. Thank goodness for some cloud cover and a breeze.

The thing about walking long distance with a pack is that after a period of discomfort when you wonder if you should call a cab, if only you could, so it’s good you can’t, things settle in, or on, more pertinently.

There was lots of impressive stonework along the way.

Last year we took a rest day after two days of walking. This year – 12! I’d say our training in the Sandias and Manzanitas was effective.We are here in Nîmes til the morning of the 28th when we walk to Saint-Gilles, our final day and end location of this Chemin. A few people though have suggested we walk to Arles. “C’est pas désagréable,” said one woman we met hiking in the opposite direction. I don’t know as that’s a ringing endorsement. On verra.

Two last photos, which reminds me. We saw about 5 wild boar running across that path in the photo above, followed by about 7 boar-lets. Very impressive! Those adult boars, however, had no adult in the rear to ensure the piglets were following.

Wild things…

Touristing in Nîmes today, but taking it slow.

May your days and nights be awash in wonder. Bisou.

Paula will be filling in the details for the day.  I’m just going to blurt something and call it a day.

We arrived in Nimes limping and thankful for a couple recovery days to come.

Here is a photo from our air bnb that will be home until Wednesday.

We are in the historical center of Nimes, a block or so from some Roman ruins.  We’ll post on such types of things over the next few days.

Here is the graphic for today.

It was a long,  tedious day.  It was hot in the sun. But we were blessed with some high clouds that provided some occasional cover and a cooling breeze that made the hike tolerable

If you’d like to view the recap video, here is the Link.

We’ll be in touch.

We began this trek among pastures, went into the mountains,  and are now among vineyards.

Got to speak French three times today: at lunch in Moussac, with a pilgrim along the way,  him headed north and staying in Ners tonight Chez Fanny where we were last night, and with our hosts tonight, Catherine and Thierry.  Lovely older couple in a verdant and quiet location on the edge of town.

The first 10 days of walking we saw a poppy here, a poppy there. Suddenly today there are fields of them.

Have only seen three of these crosses. Protestant churches here are called temples. They are never open. Nor have Catholic churches been sin ever left the Cevennes. Curious.

That’s all I got for today. Except to say that 15 miles is long and tomorrow will be longer. But a few breaks here and there,  even short ones, make it all do-able. Not to say that it’s tiring as all get out, and my feet and legs will be happy to take a break in Nîmes. We’ll probably still walk a lot,  but not with packs.

Voilà.

We are staying in a Chambre d’hōte in Aubarne being hosted by an African couple.   Thierry was born in Algiers when it was a French department,  and Catherine was born in the Belgian Congo.   They are Frence as all get out.  They are a fun couple,  quite entertaining, and have kept is up until it’s almost bedtime.

The facility offers a very Spartan list of amenities,  among which is:

Tomorrow we walk to Nimes, which is about 18 miles.   That’s the longest section we have on this trail,  and the last section with significant elevation gain.   We are taking two rest days in Nimes because we can.

Today was a long day as well,  mostly on pavement,  through pastures, vineyards, and a few very old villages.

Here is the graphic for today.

As you can see,  I’m completely incompetent on judging what the day will bring.   It was not as easy as I expected.

If you would like to see the recap video,  the link is here.

A few of today’s sights:

This bridge crosses the river from Moussac leads to the historical Regodane.   It is a much longer hike to St Gilles,  but with a greater paucity of accommodations.

Today has been a little too much walking,  wine, and food.   It’s time for bed.

We walked 14 miles yesterday the 22nd with an unexpected amount of elevation gain. And getting into Alès, several tricky descents that were steep and on unstable ground. Worst part was the 2 Mike walk through the city of Alès on pavement.  For some reason my right foot has decided that it can’t abide pavement and hurts hurts, especially after a long day. I was asleep by 9 and slept til 7. I was out.

Photos from Le Pontil to Alès…

Mushrooms are big here.  Not a large as the sculptures,  but the ubiquity of the sculptures tells the story.

It truly is jarring and jangling to suddenly be in a city after spending days among villages and walking through hamlets. Sometimes going for miles without seeing anyone except men in tractors. Will miss the Cevennes mountains and trails,  but not the rocks.

We had a pleasant surprise today, the 23rd, with the medieval town of Vézénobres. Part of its fortifications still present.  The trail took us along the ramparts.

We are lucky to have a place here in Ners for the night. Our host Mdm. Gras has 25 people staying across the street at her dorm style Gîte. A big birthday celebration. We are staying in a building near her home. It has 3 bedrooms,  kitchen/living. It’s farmhouse funky. She is generous. Welcome beer. Free use of washer n dryer, though we couldn’t get the dryer to work and so used the dryer rack. Great dinner. Salad with olives, corn, onion, green pepper, black and green olives. Galette de Bretagne with courgettes. Flan. Bread – of course.

And now time to fait dodo.😴

Today was a fairly easy walk.  The first five miles were on pavement,  which was good since we didn’t have to clambor over rocks and roots, but a little hard on the feet.   The waymarking was a bit shady in the afternoon, which got us off track a couple of times. Once, we ended up at an airplane landing strip and followed a trail in the right direction until we merged back with the Regodane.   The second time,  we got stuck in a barley field with no apparent way when a hedgerow crossed the trail, and we had to find a way around it.   We finally got to a road but then had to find a way across a deep ditch.

Through impressive use of our powers of observation (which had earlier lapsed,  getting us into the situation) we prevailed.  We actually ended up with a net saving of 0.5 kilometers from the official distance.

Here is today’s graphic.

The elevation profile chart looks formidable,  but it wasn’t that bad. The tracking app turned itself off a couple times, which compressed the horizontal axis a bit.   If you wish to view the recap video,  click this link.

The highlight of the day was walking through the village of Vézénobres, which is a medieval fortress city,  and was an important stop along the Regordane and the Chemin de Saint Gilles.

We took a long break at Saint Hilaire de Brethmas as we rested our weary feet.  Our bench was in the shade, right across from the town church.

The door was locked,  as have been many of the Catholic churches in the Cevennes.  I think they still don’t trust those Huguenots to not burn them down, given the chance.

We are missing the festival in Saint Hilaire that is happening today and tomorrow,  featuring the “manifestation” of the bulls.

I am sure there is no occult meaning behind this.

Later.