In case we haven’t yet been in touch, we are back in Albuquerque, arrived Thursday evening. We left France the 26th June and had a quick visit in Jamestown. Then we rented a carvto drive to Ithaca to visit a dear friend we hadn’t seen in too long.

It’s good to be home. Our yard is a veritable jungle. We hear that there was quite a bit of rain in June,  plus Ed had hooked up soaker hoses.

Before we leftpruned the Mexican Bird of Paradis in a rather heavy handed manner. I should have taken a photo. They were stark. Before leaving we did see signs of life. Upon return,  I was delighted to see them in full form.

Now I’m thinking about how I want to be here. What are my priorities? Currently,  I’m on the front porch watching the finches angle for a space on the bird feeders. We also have a new cat in the neighborhood who loves to skulk around in our yard as it affords multiple hiding places from which to stalk. She’s quite social with us. Easing into life in Albuquerque is how I’m approaching return.

Here are some observations that haven’t made it into previous posts:

Euro bills:

I love that each is a different color. Also,the size of the bill corresponds to the amount. So, the five note is smaller than the ten, which is smaller than the twenty. There are no one or two Euro notes, just coins, which can get pretty heavy. For some reason,  the one Euro coin seems like play money, when it’s more than a dollar.

In most places the hot water is scalding.

Kabobs, tacos, and pizza are often sold at the same location.

Since the weather was grand we always sat outside. But the interiors of even the more modest bistros were classy.

Cafés/tabacs will often fill a wine bottle from a boxed wine. It was always good.

Tabacs seem to most frequently be the hangout for men.

Steak in France has generally been a disappointment.

Some of our best dinners were on the Chemin and home cooked meals or at a small town hotel. The Chalet Hotel in Genholac comes to mind – and it was the only place open for dinner.

You can’t beat France for inexpensive-oh-my-goodness-this-is-great pastries. Well, maybe you can, but not that I’ve experienced. Would love to know where you’ve been for same…Korea? Vietnam? Italy? Turkey?

Looking forward to seeing you!

in every long trip when something is awry. Tension ensues. That day, okay, make that two days, occurred Friday and Saturday,  the 20th and 21st. Strasbourg is already inundated with tourists, and it’s a much larger and busier city than we anticipated. It was also really hot! Lack of research. Hasty decisions. I had a strong visceral dislike for Strasbourg. Yet, there were many interesting things about it.

Strasbourg is the seat of the European Parliment and the Rights of Man. It’s also one of the four capitals of the European Union, along with Brussels,  Luxembourg,  and Frankfurt.

Both of these buildings are huge. How many employees? What could they all possibly be doing? Where’s the money coming from to pay all those salaries? Not to mention upkeep.

Strasbourg at night…

We got away from the city by taking the tram to a park with a side trip to see a Russian orthodox church.

Also took a train to what was supposed to be a smaller town, but was actually pretty big and crowded, although the old town was beautifully intact. But it was so touristy we didn’t stay long.

La Fête de la Musique on the 21st provided some good entertainment. We heard three good bands.

Also discovered an underground jazz “cave”.

I was very glad to leave Strasbourg and felt trepidation about Nancy. Thankfully it’s so much calmer and open.

On a whim, I searched to see if Lo’Jo, a band we had experienced at Globalquerque some years ago and that I fixated on,  would be playing. To my delight and surprise they would be! And in an area not far from where we contemplated going – the Alsace-Lorraine region of France.

The music was as beguiling and mesmerizing as I’d remembered. I spoke with the main man, songwriter, poet, musician and told him the tale of how we came to be there. I was as flustered as a teenage girl.

We stayed in the tiny town of Tétaigne nearby. Took a walk through a field.

On Sunday the 15th, before the concert, we took a hike outside of Sedan.

On Monday we stopped in Verdun to see the memorial to WWI dead. It is imposing and striking.

Several small villages in the area were completely wiped out.

We left with heavy hearts and made our way to Metz, grateful.

We have found that Edmund Fallot’s mustard is much stronger than is Dijon mustard…what we get in the states, anyway. We had a grand time sampling mustard of various flavors and came away with some favorites, including the original,  which we had on our first night on the Chemin de Saint-Gilles in Concis. It was a revelation.

The archeological museum was compact and impactful. The best way to share the info is through this link: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/history/article/sequana-goddess-seine-river-paris

One thing the article fails to mention is that the Romans changed the female goddess Sequana, to a male, Sequanos.

I appreciated seeing the bronze ex-votos, as well as the wooden ones. When I saw the small bronze ones, I immediately thought of milagros.

The old town of Dijon is largely pedestrian, with zig-zaggy streets. It’s easy to find your way…so many landmarks! And a helpful tourist booklet, only 4€, shows a few walking tours. Bronze owl markers in the street help direct your gaze to historic features. One is an owl on the corner of the Notre-Dame cathedral.

Another unusual sight we would have missed,  but for the guide book, was…

The owner was a successful businessman specializing in cauldrons. One can be seen depicted in the pediment. Who knew cauldrons could be so lucrative?

I’d never seen images of Joan of Arc listening to the voices calling her to duty, until Dijon and these two:

Here’s something about Dijon that I’m not sure I’ve seen elsewhere.  Street names tell why.

All the museums in Dijon are free. At the Beaux Arts Museum, housed in the former Palace of the Dukes, my favorite was the lower part of this funerary piece:

And as a final comment on Dijon… it’s a wonderful city! Not overwhelming.  Creative. Charming. 

Until next time…

Ooo-la-la, Swiss-French style

I love standing on the stairstep looking out this window. I love this town. It is beyond charming. For my Three Pines friends, it’s the closest I’ve come to thst village. Liz had a “coup de foudre” moment when she visited, walked into an archway and saw this…

We arrived here last Thursday the 5th. We are staying until Wednesday morning when we depart for Dijon – back to France 🇫🇷!

My friend Liz moved here last October. She has Swiss citizenship, as do her two daughters who also live in Switzerland, albeit in a different town. They are all three delightful to be with. Liz made a point of introducing us to many of the local specialties.

We walked into history in this Chateau. An introduction to he four families that lived here, how it became an artist gathering place,  rooms furnished according to the times, overtime…built in the 11thC.

It had interactive elements such a tableaux that “came to life” and talked to you, like this one…

And one where table setting pieces were missing and you had to select what went where. We did miserably and were thus instructed to educate ourselves.

In all respects, this was a most enjoyable experience. We may even have convinced Liz’s daughters of its worthiness.

Saturday we got to see a 1200 year old illuminated Bible in amazing condition. Well, it was open to two pages, protected within an acrylic box, for five minutes, five people at a time. It was not enough time to suss out the fine details, but enough time to recognize the artistry, patience, and devotion of the scribe.

Pentecost Sunday. Liz sang with the choir, so we attended. There were two clergy, one whom i could comprehend quite well.  I enjoyed his talk regarding breath and spirit. The Abbaye is not a consecrated Catholic Church any longer, but ecumenical.

Following the service, we immediately went to a special meal at the Prieuré which occurs about four-five times a year.  It’s buffet style,  but the offerings are widely diverse and gourmet quality. Charlie was surprised at how much I ate…and ate.

I did go hiking in the woods afterwards and it was glorious. Trails abound.

Monday was a hand in town day. Walked to a waterfall

But the really nice waterfall was a Tuesday trip, back to La Sarraz.

It was so cool, so fresh, so inviting…

Romainmôtier was a nicely timed quiet interlude. Loved spending time in a small community,  walking the dogs, spending a bit of time at each of the four main businesses: two restaurants,  brew pub, and bakery. An épicerie is the only business needed, and one may be opening soon. 🤞

Off to the Dijon market!

We arrived on Sunday, June 1 and leave tomorrow,  the 5th.

The aqueduc: built 1753-1765; 8.5 miles. To ensure enough water for the citizens’ use and for the fountains.

Yesterday we took a train to Sète and then a bus to the beaches. The trip took about an hour all told. As the bus wound its way through Sète, a larger and more crowded fishing “village ” than anticipated (again),  we recognized that we had no desire to spend time wandering its streets.

I got in the water immediately. So cool. So crystalline clear. Little fishes swimming in the shallows. A tiny crab scuttling along the bottom. Soft, fine sand. I sat in the sun reading; took a nap; back into the drink for a swim. More reading with a cool breeze keeping it all comfortable. Ed returned from his exploration – (I’d heard about a chapel the fishermen built, so he took it on. He can write about that experience.) – and we had a refreshing IPA.

Montpellier is the fastest growing city in France. It boasts the oldest medical school in the world and one of the oldest universities. Alumni include Petrach, Nostrodamus, and Rabelais. 360 days of sunshine a year, though we’ve had clouds and very light, off/on, mostly off showers.

It’s a very walkable city, as are all these 12th century towns. Lots of parks and greenery throughout. Our apartment is in the ancient quarter, close to everything.

Ww went to the Jardin des Planres earlier today. It’s affiliated with the University. A large expanse with many paths to wander. Trees and flowers. And birdsong.

We made it to the Saint-Roch church today, where there is this statue of him. On Monday when we went to the Cathedral there was also a statue of him.

We hadn’t seen much of Saint-Roch on this Chemin like we did on the Chemin de Saint-Jacques. I got to wondering if there was a connection between Saint-Roch and Montpellier. Yep! Turns out he was born here.

In my writing about food I forgot to mention a strategy. If in an apartment without oil or vinegar,  buy a small jar of roasted veggies  in oil/vinegar. Use in salad with arugula and other fresh veggies.  Use with eggs. On bread with cheese.

Last night we had rougaille de saucisse bought from a boucherie. The best yet, it had a pronounced flavor of Verveine or lime. Good over rice. With sautéed red pepper, onion, mushrooms,  fresh garlic (which is amazing and not anything I’ve ever seen in the US). And more of the paté de canard avec girolles that is just so good. Then I fell into a food coma.

Creative signage:

Street art:

Really enjoying the exploration…missing not speaking French as much as on the Chemin.  Reading a book in French though that’s a fun time – La Quiche Fatale. Also picked up a Petit Nicolas, one in a series, beloved in France, geared for young readers. The world from a 6 year old’s perspective. Reminds me of the Ramona books. The bookstore: Gibert. 4 floors. Lots of people of all reading ages. Lots of books at reduced prices. My two, just 5€30.

That’s it for today. Think I’ll read for a bit before dinner.

Bon appétit !

Now that we are no longer walking the Chemin,  food and eating become more complicated. On Chemin, breakfast is provided. For lunch you carry a ham and cheese sandwich, or stop in somewhere or go without.  Dinner is provided. Very good dinners.

Kitchenettes in these studio or two room apartments (plus bathroom) are tiny and provide the bare minimum in the way of cooking supplies. Yet, it’s always enough to be able to prepare simple meals.

I enjoy the challenge and the creativity that go into deciding what to purchase and how to prepare it.

We like to have breakfast in, and it’s easy, requires no thinking. Well, except for trying to find the right pods for the different coffee makers. I’d like to smack that inventor. In Arles we had a French press, glory be! Every French rental should have one. Or a stove top espresso maker. These pods are for the birds. But i digress. We get yogurt,  oats, eggs, butter, ham, cream, and bread. Usually out for lunch.

We’ve discovered some good strategies for dinner. A bag of arugula, tomatoes,  red pepper,  olives, pasta,  mushrooms, onion, garlic are good basics to have on hand. Tried rice recently and while tasty, it was kind of gummy, even though I rinsed it – several times. It’s just so difficult to calibrate the electric elements. Pasta is easier.

If we’re lucky enough to have market day, that’s a treat. In Arles, we were. Got some beautiful violet asparagus. Thick. Chunked it. Sliced chunks in half and seared it in butter. A little salt. Pan roasted some bread crumbs in butter to go on top. Wow. It was sweet and meaty. Also got some potatoes cooked in chicken juices as they turned on the spit. The sweetest strawberries ! Gorgonzola cheese that was so creamy it was like a thick custard. A slightly briny taste. I liked it.

One restaurant we walked by had three selections on the menu board: curry chicken,  confit de canard, and blanquette de veau.  I’d had all three and all divine. I’ll be looking for dishes i haven’t had.

Case in point, albeit a mundane one. Yesterday,  asis often the case when traveling,  we were off the standard timing for meals. We’d had a small bite before catching the train from Arles to Montpellier. Upon arriving we were hungry and set out to a local market. Got quiche. Got ice cream. Waiting for our apartment to be ready. Wandered then toward our apartment location. Now it’s lunchtime, but we’ve eaten.

Finally settled in, we decide to walk to a park where an orchestra will be playing and to find a restaurant or brasserie by it.

Maps mislead us. It’s a much longer distance and through neighborhoods where we stand out, like people watching us walk by and you can tell they’re wondering how we got off course. Or maybe we’re just paranoid.

There was nothing open in this neighborhood. No cafés. It was dirty…lots of trash strewn about.  Then it started to rain. By now we’re really hungry and both of us are valiantly avoiding hunger disgruntled-ness. Fortunately, a tram is close by. We make it back to Place de la Comedie. And cafés.

Of course, it’s still too early for a real meal. It’s gouter time and everyone is eating ice cream. But, we find a place serving basic croques – not Madame or Monsieur – just plain croques, ie no bechamel sauce. However, now I’m finally getting to the mundane example of trying something new, there were three croques from which to choose: regular ham and cheese, truffé ham and cheese, i forget the third. I went with the truffé. Truffé was terrific! Served with a small salad and crudités. Accompanied by a lovely viognier. I will say I was surprised by the bread – plain white, like Bimbo. Three slices, all flattened to about a quarter inch.

Sometimes I just want to cook. Today we’ll go to Les Halles, the daily covered market for provisions. Then off to…haven’t decided, yet.

Will finish this post by saying that today we tried to follow the French dining timeliness. Light breakfast.  Lunch at the appointed time. Gouter around 5 – ice cream, bien sûr! Then i wasn’t hungry for dinner,  though we had a plan. Oh, well. A little bread and paté … and now, too sleep.

Photos tomorrow!

If you’ve heard anything about Arles, it’s that Van Gogh lived here for two years. There are a number of photo plaques around the city placed where he painted a scene.

There is also an arena here. “The Greeks founded Arles in the 6th century BC and Julius Caesar established a Roman colony here in 46 BC. Arles prospered under Roman rule. Constantine the Great named Arles the second capital in his empire in AD 306. It wasn’t until 1481 that Arles was incorporated into the kingodm of France.” (from Sacred Destination s website)

Today, May 30, we took a local bus to Saintes-Maries de la Mer for a dip in the Med.

“Legend has it that Marie Jacobé, the aunt of Jesus, and Marie Salomé were washed upon the shores of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer when they arrived from Palestine in the first century AD, thus giving the town its name. When she heard that their children were being killed, Sara, their servant, vowed to protect the gypsies of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer and in consequence became their patron saint.” (from France This Way website)

The gypsies make a pilgrimage there once a year in May to honor her. It was last weekend. Leaving the church, a woman handed me a card with a photo of Sara and a prayer on the back. She asked for money.  I gave the card back.

It was a pristine time at the beach. Cool breeze, the sea unexpectedly cold, clear skies and water. The sea was placid and shallow for quite a ways out.

The town was tightly packed with tourist shops and lots of tourists.  It was putting me out of sorts. Also because it was hot and close. A mint chocolate chip ice cream helped. Once we left the glut and got to the sea, my world was set to rights.

Now, if you’ve wondered why we didn’t walk from Saint-Gilles to Arles… We didn’t want to. Our commitment was to walk La Régordane. The route to Arles is flat, hot, and un

inspiring. We may be pilgrims (of a sort), but we are not penitents.

They also came in handy as drying racks.

We have access to a washer, which ostensibly is also a dryer. It’s not very efficient. I ended up hanging things rather than wait for the dryer.

A few final photos…

Adieu.

Hello stalwart readers! We made it to Saint-Gilles du Gard yesterday the 28th. What a long, flat, hot slog it was. 17 miles. I spent a good portion of it creating senseless,  but fun (to me), descriptions to a cadence chant from the army. No way I can duplicate it here, so you’ll just have to remember to ask me for a sample when I get back.

Yesterday,  we walked through miles of vineyards and orchards: apple, peach, apricot.

Close to Saint-Gilles we met pilgrim Calum, Scottish but born in Bruges, Belgium because his dad was Catholics, his mom Protestant and they couldn’t marry in Scotland so they moved. True love. Having a new companion helped the last few miles slip by. Calum said he was really tired and we helped him, too.

Here are a few pilgrim makers new to us, and the first sighting on this trip of the traditional one…

Oh, and this dual version:

We also saw stencils on many homes.

Last night i fell asleep before even beginning a post. Tonight, while writing it. So, I’ll have to sign off until tomorrow. 

This is one of the more historical cities I’ve been in. The Roman’s had a huge presence here. Roman name is Nemausus, after the water god dwelling in the natural spring that feeds this place it’s water. David Burns, Water Flowing Underground,  comes to mind.

There’s a fully intact amphitheater here – some gruesome acts took place (prisoners forced to fight to the death of one; prisoners tied to a post while a wild animal tears into him; two animals chained together and fighting it out), and also some exciting gladiator combat. I was surprised to learn of the many different gladiators there were and if their attire and wespons.

Again, a Roman Temple,  still standing in astonishing good shape.

A few symbols:

That’s part of the wall that surrounded the ancity of Nemausus. There were ten city gates, of which two remain (partially). It’s not a bad climb up 140 steps for a long g view of old and new Nîmes.

I don’t know how the rest days here went by so fast and we stayed up so late, too. Tomorrow we walk with packs to Saint-Gilles. And now I lay me down to sleep.

May you all be well.