I was too tired last night – felt like I was coming down with a cold so went to sleep early.

Felt fine today for an 11 mile plus hike through more meadows and pastures, lush green grass, and more wild flowers.  When wind blows over the grass it undulates and looks, especially from a distance,  like water. It’s mesmerizing. When the morning sun shines upon it, the brilliance bedazzles.

Cold start to the day. It was about 36 degrees with an icy wind. Thankful for the sun. It did make for comfortable walking!

Noticings: roadside crosses here often have a Christ placed on them. Not something we saw hiking the Chemin de St Jacques.  How calming it is to walk amidst a vast amount of green. Wild birdsong nonstop! The great rush of wind in the trees. The comfort of having a warm buff around my neck to keep that wind out.

12th C! The 1100s. Catholisme was well entrenched here. Then Calvin, a follower of Luther, trained a bunch of priests to spread the ‘Truth’. It got ugly. The Catholics routed out the Protestants by burning their homes and farms. Many escaped to Switzerland where it was safe. The Protestants of course retaliated. The above church was damaged. The Camisards fought back, but in the end were subdued. The area Robert Louis Stevenson walked through is still Protestant territory. Please excuse the truncated history lesson which is certainly not deeply researched.

Most people we’ve met at Gîtes are walking the RLS. Have only met 1 guy from Bretagne, walking La Régordane.

We spent last night in Langogne and the night before in Landos. There are not many villages on this trail; there are hamlets – clusters of homes. They are very quiet…we don’t see people outside, save for a few men working in the barns. A few cars when we’re on road,  tractors off road.  Roads/farm trails are so narrow we stand well off to allow vehicles to pass.

The trail is mostly well marked,  though at times we have had to retrace our steps due to confusion or missed ballisages – the marks used here are a white line over red for straight ahead.

Today we head to Luc. Signing off…

It seems odd, yet this was our third time here. In Fall 2023 we arrived to bgin the Chemin de St Jacques. It was hot. The Chemin was crowded. So we left to spend a week in the Dordogne. We came back, but just for the night. Now here we were to commence La Régordane. While we didn’t need a full day in Le Puy it’s a good thing we had it. Charlie had come down with a cold in Paris and needed a recovery day.

I explored and found a wonderful park.

We attended the Pilgrim Mass the morning of the 14th – yesterday.

It was a bit of walking on pavement leaving Le Puy which then morphed into Le Puy en Vals before leaving city behind for a long, I mean looooong, uphill climb. Most of the day was uphill until a long, rocky decent.

We walked through pine forest, paths lined with a glorious assortment of wild flowers, and fields of rapeseed.

Our lodging for the night was in an apartment in an old stone barn. Dinner in the home with another couple from Orleans staying there – not hikers. Had a dinner of local food, sausage and paté from Viviane ‘s brother, salad from her garden, Le Puy green lentils, local cheeses, flan. A feast, in other words. Best sausage ever! Also a really strong mustard that puts Grey Poupon to shame. Gotta have it!

Slept well. Those old stone barns converted into living spaces retain heat well. As opposed to tonight’s room which is cold!

I’ve always been attracted by doors and windows.  France provides plenty to ogle in that regard. Yesterday we searched out 2 doors in particular that were written about in Paris vous aime, a free magazine that I pick up at the airport. I enjoy the articles and tips on restaurants,  etc though rarely do we follow up on any. Plus, it’s bilingual.

Happened upon these two in our neighborhood this morning.

Meanwhile in Saint-Chappelle…

On the outside, framing the doors,  are carved images that will be familiar.

We walked by the Louvre on the way to the Tuileries garden.

We went to dinner at a nice restaurant last night on the Île Saint-Louis. The blanquette de veau tasted of cream and lemon. The veal ever so tender. The carrots, mushrooms, and onions meltingly smooth. I’d never had it before, and now plan to make it at home. We both started with the endive, walnut, blue cheese salad. Delicious. Curios how endive is so common here, but so expensive in the States. Same with veal. It’s hardly ever on a menu at home. Maybe that’s just Albuquerque.

We had 3.5 pretty perfect Paris days. Ed started getting sneezy and stuffy so we took it easy today. Yesterday,  something in the air was making me sneeze and feel like something was in my throat,  making me cough, but only in the morning. Today it got to my eyes, but only in the afternoon. Maybe cottonwood. I did see some by the Seine and fluff was floating around.

Other than that, we’re good and looking forward to being in Le Puy en Velay tomorrow.

À bientôt !

PS We’ve averaged 8 miles a day, with a high of 11 yesterday.

Here’s how this leg of the trip, RI to Paris, started: our flight on 5.8 was canceled.  Charlie received a message on the 7th, around noon. We then had a choice of flights that night at 7, 7:20, or 10:20. Given we still had laundry to do and get from Jamestown to  Boston,  we elected the 10:20 flight. That meant a change of seats. We were in the last row. Still the flight was fine and I slept more than I usually do on a transatlantic flight. I watched Conclave – also mixed review. Maybe I’ll write about it later.

Highlights of yesterday after arriving at the hotel at 2pm. We went directly to Notre Dame. A horde of people,  a line a mile long. Plus a crowd vying to buy breads and pastries at a large tent.

Early May and Paris is hopping. Every tourist boat is full.

We couldn’t get skip-the-line tickets for Notre Dame, so opted to walk around. Visited Shakespeare and Company bookstore/reading room, founded by Sylvia Beach, and frequented by Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce (Sylvia was first to publish Ulysses), and other literary luminaries.

We wound our way back to the Cathedral-just in time for 6pm mass. No line! Heard about the white smoke in Rome. Got to tour at leisure. It’s beautiful-not too dazzling white as some have claimed. No weird lighting as others wrote.

Today, May 9, I took photos of the outside.

Yesterday we discovered Le Tour de Saint-Jacques, a traditional starting point for the Chemin.

We returned to the Plaza in front of the Cathedral by mid-day today and didn’t have a long wait in line to get bread from the best boulangers in Paris. Yesterday there was a competition. Unfortunately I don’t know who won. But the croissant (buttery, flaky) sandwich au jambon, pain au chocolat, and brownie were scrumptious. We sat by the Seine in the sun for lunch.

Just behind us on a wall we saw this:

In the afternoon we went for beer at Scilicet (Latin, meaning namely) also by the Seine.

Okay. Aside from the canceled flight, the only other negative is our hotel for these next 3 nights. So noisy. And breakfast 5€ more than last night’s hotel, which also had a bigger room, a queen bed, and was quiet. So now we have this comparison. The place we booked last minute is so much better than what we booked months ago. It has good reviews but it won’t get one from me.

Other than that disappointment,  it’s been great! Really loving Paris this go round, after not liking it so much in July ’24. That’s a nice surprise. I’m reminded that I wasn’t so pleased with Budapest in July.  Lesson: stay out of big cities in July!

And now it’s almost midnight, so I should try to get some sleep.

À plus!

We walked to the airport Thursday morning in great anticipation of the first leg of our journey to Lafayette, LA for the annual Festival International.  We’d read reports of good weather for the festival. We were looking forward to seeing Charlie’s brother Larry and SIL Carmen.

Our flight was delayed about a half hour.  Then it was canceled due to weather in Dallas. American Airlines couldn’t get us to Lafayette until 11pm Saturday.  What was the point in going when we’d have only Sunday? We trekked on home.

Charlie canceled the rental car to Panama City. Canceled the two hotels we were to stay in along the way. One was in Fairhope, AL – a town I’d wanted to explore after a friend said how much she liked it. That’s the second time we canceled a trip there…

At home, Ed made flight reservations to get us to Panama City. We’re still going to visit friends in Mexico Beach! The rest of the journey continues as planned with a stop in RI before our flight to France.

By the way,  that good weather in Lafayette…uh uh. Rain. And Larry and Carmen had no joy on Thursday as their rental car got a flat tire that took 5 hours to get repaired! At least the Air B and B has a pin ball machine. And the weather forecast is improving…if you can believe those gringos.

Hiking Piedra Lisa tomorrow! Life is good.

I had thought I’d be better about posting these past months.  Wasn’t that a 2025 resolution?  A third of the year has already passed. At any rate, once a month is more than usual.  Our upcoming travels, leaving April 24h (!) mean I’ll post more.

Get ready for more photos from hikes. That’s the focus as we prepare for the Chemin de St Gilles.

Today we hiked in the Manzanitas, 337 South. This is a route we’ve taken before, but this time we went in the opposite direction.  It was a nice change. It seemed easier. Less steep. 

I love this area for hiking, although it’s rocky as all get out. The smaller ones rock and roll under your feet. Sometimes you’ll skid and slide a bit, sending a small frisson of an  electric wake-up call through the body.

Periodically you get a nice smooth area. But it’s short lived.

France is rocky too. I’m sure I mentioned it.  I suppose that’s true of any place where the earth has been thrust upward in the formation of mountains. 

When I hike I often think of Laure, whom we met in 2023 during the first 2 weeks on the Via Podiensis.  She was a lovely woman, soft spoken, and patient with my French.  I remember her walking slowly,  contemplative, and stopping when she came to one of the ancient stone crosses that are common along the trail. I resolve to not rush.

Walking fast is kind of like driving fast. In general you don’t get to your destination all that much quicker.

But on these hikes we are in training. Plus, we aren’t walking through quaint villages with chapels to visit, or a coffee shop to pop into for an espresso and a petit rest. Here, we stop in a patch of sun; we find a decent rock to sit on. We munch our clementines, nuts, chocolate,  and sometimes cheese and crackers. 

The beauty of the Manzanitas is how treed they are. The expanse of green is very restful for the eyes and for the heart and mind.

We walked here last Wednesday too. I found these feathers. I think from a turkey pheasant.

Today, we came upon these cairns.

After a nice long hike we’ve hit the Rock Canyon Tap Room on old 66. They have delicious ciders. Last week I was trying to decide between the passion fruit and the lavender lemon. The barkeep asked if I’d ever had them combined. No. She fixed up a taster for me and I was sold!

And potato chips never tasted so good. No food there – just chips, doritos, fritos.

My yawns are overtaking me. Good night!

In January I posted about three days in the Sandias, one of which was Three Gun. Since then, I’ve hiked it thrice more; once alone and twice with Ed. I bet I’d be walking it alone more often, if I hadn’t told Ed about a man I came upon.

Almost at the end of the trail, I round a corner, and see a man standing with his pants down, naked legs, white skivvies. I turn away fast, make a little noise, and walk a bit in the opposite direction. I get my knife out. When I check on him, pants are up. He’s walking on. I wait a bit. Should I go on? I want to get to my end point and I didn’t get a bad vibe. So, I continue, without incident.

I’ve decided it’s a good training trail for our next hike in France – the Chemin de St. Gilles or the GR 700. It’s a short one, compared to the Camino Portugues and the Via Podiensis. Still, it has significant elevation gain and change over the 150 or so miles.

So, we’re in training. I want to avoid the discomfort (pain) that I experienced on the first two days last year. This is a good trail for a number of reasons: no bicyclists; no snow and ice; easy to get to; steep, with 2200 ft elevation gain over 4 miles; 8 miles r/t is a decent training distance; I think it’s beautiful. And every once in a while, the aroma of pine wafts by, stopping me in my tracks. But it’s so ephemeral, it’s almost gone as soon as it’s detected – a gift.

Here’s more information: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sandia-medallion-trees

I’ve also been taking brisk – read fast – walks around the park nearby. My legs – and feet! – are feeling good.

And enjoying it. Not having a cold mind you, but being curled up with a book because I didn’t have energy to do anything – yes! Also because movement seemed to bring on the sneezing and blowing.

I actually read my first novel in French! With minimum help from Google Translate, I might add. I needed those too many days of having a cold to really get into it. Reading French for hours at a time helped me retain vocabulary because a lot would be repeated. Being submerged helped me make connections between words I know and uses of them in various forms.

The writing was beautifully descriptive and I believe that also contributed to my enjoyment and understanding.

Too many days though, not because I wasn’t enjoying being hunkered down, but because colds are annoying. I still have stuffed sinuses on day 8!

Today warmed up significantly though and I took a nice long walk in the Ridgecrest neighborhood, came home and filled the bird feeders, did a bit of yard work, and made a delicious chicken soup for dinner. Feelin’ better.

And! Back to French…attended a Group Français meeting last night and had multiple conversations with a variety of people and felt quite comfortable doing it. Of course, it was a lot of chit chat, getting -to-know-you talk, which I’m comfortable with and have a handle on vocabulary.

Being on Zoom meetings with people from all over the world and talking about more meaty topics is a lot more challenging. I prepare my remarks in advance, writing them out in paragraph form, then make bullet points, so that I’m not reading, but more naturally speaking. I still get way too nervous though and hope I get over it.

Which reminds me – I’ve got to get online and see what next week’s topic is and sign up for a few meetings.

Wherever you are, I hope you’re comfortable and healthy. I hope the new year is starting off well for you. It is for me. I’m happy to see our country course-correcting.

Take care, and if a cold visits, take advantage of some lazy days.

Day 1, January 4:

Last Saturday Debbie and I hiked Pino trail in Elena Gallegos. It’s about 9.5 miles RT with a 2,762 ft elevation gain. We hit some snow and ice but we’re prepared with micro-spikes. And poles. They came in handy.

Also coming in handy we’re palmiers and donuts at the trailhead. Wildlife personnel were there handing them out and informing us that it was deer hunting season – archery only.

I met some hunters afterwards by my car and was told that only 50 permits are granted for the entire west and east side of the mountain. No wonder we saw no one. Plus, I’m sure they stay well away from the trails and talky  hikers.

We had a glorious day – only windy at the top.

Very comfortable hiking, as the elevation gain is pretty gradual. Sure. Tell that to my calves which hurt for the next 4 days!

Day 2, Wednesday, January 8:

Sandia Tram with my brother Tom and his partner, Donna, visiting from RI…

Views from the tram…

Up top Tom and I took a little hike.

Tom and I separated at one point, taking different routes. When we met up he said, “There’s a big white couch o er there.” I’m thinking he’s pulling my leg and it’s a snow covered ledge…

Day 3, Saturday, January 11:

Three Gun Trail, also known as Tres Pistolas, also as Three Gun Spring Trail…to Embudito Trail. This is on the south side, just north of I40 at Carmel, which seems like a great little community.

This puppy is steep! Charlie and I could really feel it and took multiple short breaks. It’s about 8 miles (per All Trails), with 2,316 elevation gain.

At one point I asked some folks heading down how far they’d gone. The woman replied, “Til I was about ready to cry.” The guy said, just up to the Victory Stick, which is where Embudito Trail comes in.

Legs are fine today! Must hike these long and steep trails regularly so my first days hiking in France don’t hurt.

Training makes a difference!

I’m finishing up 2024 with a Resolution for 2025 – to post more “day in the life” blogs. New Mexico is so beautiful, even just inside the city. While I have oft thought of moving, even putting offers in on a few homes in Virginia a few years back, I now know that this is home. This is where my connections are. My friends. My Nia. My Balloon museum volunteer work. I have paddle boarding and hiking. That’s not to say I wouldn’t go and live somewhere else for 3 months. I would not consider a move though.

Today, to begin my resolution to post more of day-to-day life and goings on, I’ll post a few photos from a walk Charlie/Ed and I took in the Bosque – that Cottonwood-ed area by the Rio Grande.

Up first, uplifting graffiti art:

The above was under a bridge support. All the other graffiti was the usual illegible stylized words.

Then, a carving, a patriotic woodland creature:

There were lots a geese flying overhead and ducks in the river. Periodically we would hear the cranes. One cut-off to the river afforded this view of the birds:

Some thoughtful one erected a bench for river, sky, bird viewing. Charlie gave it a test run:

After about a two mile walk we came upon some more artwork:

The day was a balmy 60 degrees. So unusual for Albuquerque in December. I’ll take it. But I wish I didn’t have to take the 98 degree days in July and August!

Wishing you all a delightful beginning to the new year. I’m optimistic for it! I hope you are too. Que será, será.