2 days running, we haven’t left the apartment til noon. However, we still manage to walk 11-12miles. Warming up for the Chemin. Speaking of, it already thre2 us our first curve ball. For some unexplained reason,  Malle Postale informed me that they couldn’t deliver our packs to the Gîte we selected. I’d call them, but they’re closed on Sunday. Too late to try and coordinate another Gîte and Malle Postale. So. We’ll take it slow and easy.

Lovely weather yesterday as we began our day in the Parc Butte Chaumont again. The aroma of mock orange flowers perfumed the air.

If I were to live in Paris, it would have to be near a park such as this. Preferably in a building such as this:

Or a park like La Villette, along the Quai Marne (which yesterday I mis-identified as the Seine).

Paris can be surprisingly quiet. A turn off the main drag and down a few side streets and voilà! Even though you’re surrounded by huge apartment complexes. Some seem stylish and quite nice. Others are huge blocks and scary to contemplate living in.

Made it to Père Lachaise Cementary for the first time. At 110 acres, it’s both the largest park and largest cemetery in Paris. There are thousands of gravesites. Some of which date back to 1804 when it opened. So many trees still standing, some over 100 years old.

We found the tombs of Isadora Duncan, Jim Morrison,  Marcel Proust, and Edith Piaf. Someone had placed a small stuffed sparrow on her tomb,  as her nickname was the Little Sparrow. Couldn’t find Collette. Should have looked for Chopin. Oh, and as we happened upon a group standing around a grave. Much laughter. Turns out it was a journalist, Victor Noir. He had been challenged to a duel by Napoleon’s cousin, who killed him. Riots ensued. A famous sculpture was commissioned and elected to fashion him lying down, as though just shot.

What really made him famous was the prominent bulge (you know where) the sculptor included. Thus, an urban legend arose. Expand the photo, if necessary, to see shiny bulge, shiny toe tips, and shiny lips. It’s said that for enhanced fertility, rub the bulge; for a perfect lover, kiss the lips; to get pregnant, touch the tight toes; and if you want (!?) twins, the left foot. At one time a fence was placed around the site to stop the “indecent rubbing”, but the hew and cry forced its removal!

Enfin, the much anticipated Nuit des Musées was a bust. Figuring that museums closer to the heart of Paris and tourists would be packed, we decided to go to La Cité des Sciences et l’industrie. As we approached,  throngs of people could be seen. But closer, we saw a short line. I asked a guard if it were special. He said no, the same. So we got into the museum in about 15 minutes! It seems that most people were coming to the museum from the other side and didn’t realize there was more than one line, so it stretched so far!

Why a bust, then? It wasn’t a very good museum. Lots of wasted space. Uninspired exhibits. Maybe we were tiring by then. Nothing compared to the one in Chicago, though. But it is in La Villette park and I’d return there!

Lots of brass scallop shells along the Quai du Marne. You can begin the Chemin here in Paris.

Today we are going to Figeac, making our way to Conques. It’s a trek. Tomorrow we take the Malle Postale van to Conques and begin the Chemin on Tuesday!

À bientôt!

The plus is for beginning with a few anecdotes prior to day 1 abroad.

A surprising and fortuitous synchronicity occurred in Atlanta. I texted Ashley  (my niece) in the Atlanta area, “So close and yet so far. We’re at the airport. ” She wrote back that she was at the airport,  headed to Denver for work. We had time to meet for about 40 minutes!

On the airplane we learned that our seats had been changed. We were up against a bulkhead and it looked like we didn’t have a screen for watching movies. The attendant had no idea why that would have happened. “Maybe a plane change…) But that wasn’t the case. I said, “We shouldn’t have to pay the same as others if we don’t have a screen!” “Oh, but you do have one,” came the reply. “It’s folded down between the seats.” Sure enough. Felt a little silly. I got yo watch Anatomy of a Fall – highly recommended! Intelligent writing. Complex relationships. Enigmatic ending.

No line to speak of getting into the country.  Easy passage. Our apartment for 3 nights is roomy and in a good location. 19th arrondisment, right across the street from Parc des Buttes-Chaument, and right next to one of the 5 celebrated Poilane boulangerie!

So. I left my earbuds on the plane. Grrrr!!! As we were meandering around Paris yesterday, we’d stop in several of the many tiny shops selling such items. None had the kind I was looking for with the loop over the ears. I felt bad as the proprietors always looked so crestfallen when I didn’t purchase their wares. Tant pis.

So today we determined the need to find a place that would. Stopped in a tourist office for info on la Nuit des Musées (more tomorrow on this) and also asked about a store for ecouteurs (earbuds). A 15 minute walk to Boulanger (not to be confused with boulangerie) and I had a new set.

Seen throughout our wandering today:

And, finally, we did stop in some churches. I’ll only share from one, Notre Dame de Travail. It’s near a rail station and was built for those who worked there.

And that’s it. Oh, we were in bed and asleep by 8:30 last night and slept til 8am! Only got about 3 hours of sleep before our early flight to Atlanta. Today was a good day. Beaux rêves.

My thoughts return again and again to France and to the Chemin. There is such an array of associations to be made in life. Once such occurred at my dance-exxercise class on November 3rd. The instructor created a small altar. We danced with loved ones who had passed on. Fitting for a week that encompasses both Halloween and Day of the Dead.

Every town in France, no matter how small, and city has a war memorial honoring those from that place who lost their lives in WWI and WWII. I find that very touching. It stirs my soul each time I see one. I spend time reading the names the honor them. And, as my forbears are from France, via Canada, I look for Lauzon, mom’s maiden name and for Gadoury or the variation, Dagory from my dad’s side.

Grave sites in cemeteries have multiple remembrances on them.

This last tugs at my heart.

Here is the translation:

Friends, Pilgrims, Hikers,

During the long years, one of my greates pleasure was to come to the Chemin to meet you, to greet you, to encourage you, to chat a bit, to tell you stories. I often came to sit here, but since April 8, 2008 I rejoined the millions of stars that shine on your path and, from above I accompany you. Pépé Catusse

Dancing in class this past Tuesday morning to a routine called “Home”, a song invoked the memory of loved ones you’ll never see again. My heart clenched to know that I will never again be in the physical presence of my mom. I stumbled a bit. Then I recalled that she had just visited in a dream and I’d awakened happy to see her. She’ll always be here in my heart, mind, and soul.

Bonjour, Albuquerque. We’re home. The bosque is gorgeous. Seeing the golden ribbon from the plane was a treat. The time travel has made it difficult to re-enter this time zone. My sleep is all discombobulated, though I think it’s getting back on track now. Spending an afternoon dancing at Kaktus Brewery in Bernalillo yesterday afternoon seems to have helped!

Here are just a few bits and bobs from our time in France that I want to capture and share.

The St. Michel Tumulus in Carnac, Bretagne is an example of a Western European Neolithic funerary monument, list as a historical in 1889. It is 125 metres long, 60 metros wide, and 10 metres high. It is an artificial mound, built around the middle of the 5th millennium BC and covers a complex funerary structure, discovered during a number of archaeological excavations in the 19th and 20th C. Beneath tons of stones lie galleries leading to 21 stone chests and a crypt that was the burial place of a prehistoric man. Found within are ashes and incinerate bones, 39 stone axes, 39 fragments of ivory, 2 flint chips, and a necklace of bariscite beads and pendants, which can be seen at the Museum of Prehistory located at the Alignments (photos of which I posted earlier). Due to some interior collapse, no entry is allowed. Climbng it though provides a wonderful 360 panaramic view of Carnac and views of the Bay of Quiberon.

One gloomy morning we visited Auray on the River Loch. It seems to be proud of the fact that Ben Franklin landed here in 1776 for a secret meeting with the King.

On a completely different topic:

I guess that’s it for this trip. So many more photos and memories. One more note on French culture – many stores are closed on Sunday. Big stores – Galerie Lafayette and the malls, for instance. Most boutiques and many restaurants are also closed. I think that’s quite civilized. My infatuation with France continues.

If any of my ping pong pals are reading this, I’ll see you Thursday! Same place, same time?

A friend requested a map showing where we’d been. This is the best I can do on my phone. I hope it helps.

I bean by highlighting major areas, then adding lines to show routes. I like this map because it has the administrative regions of France. We were in 5 of the 13. I’m not counting Paris as that was just a flight base.

From Paris we took the TGV to Lyon in Auvergne Rhone-Alps, the long green line, north to south-east. From there, a green line to Le Puys en Velay in the same region. The green line with white dots from Le Puy shows our Chemin hike, mostly in the Occitanie region.

Also from Lyon, a green line to Dordogne, Nouvelle Aquitaine, – that long hot drive in a POS Fiât.

After the Chemin we made it back to Le Puy via van. From there a train to Avignon (highlighted) in Provence, where we rented a much better car, the Renault Clio to go to Isle Sur la Sorgue and other places. Then to La Ciotat, east of Marseilles (highlighted).

Back to Avignon to return the car. Then a long TGV from there to Paris to Rennes, Bretagne, – the long red line.

The blue line from Rennes indicates travel to the Cote d’Armor and St. Malo. Orange line from Rennes is to the Morbihan area. Have I already mentioned that Mor Bihan is the Breton word for Small Sea? Also learned recently at the Musée de Bretagne that cairn is a Breton word, meaning…small pile of stones.

I think that covers it.

No, not that one!

Carnac, Bretagne has the largest collection of megaliths in the world.

Note the alignment of these stones. They were erected during the Neolithic period between 4500-3500BC – 6,000 years ago! There are almost 3,000 standing stones, along 2.5 miles. The people erecting them would have transitioned from hunter-gatherer to settled communities, raising livestock and farming.

Why were they placed here? There’s no apparent relation to stars or moon or sun. So the scientists say. Though it’s difficult to tell, the stones are placed in descending order of height. When we first arrived and I beheld this curiosity, I felt something within; a frisson of awe. Perhaps these people built horizontally what later man built vertically, in terms of cathedrals, to summon a feeling of power, of the mystical, of a connection to forces beyond the known.

The grey sky and on-again, off-again drizzle contributed to the ambiance. It also helped that the place wasn’t overrun with people as it would be in high season. The main parking lot has space for 2,000 cars.

We left the mystery of Carnac behind to walk to the beach. Ed, my pathfinder, used Google maps to determine a route off road. It was a beautiful meandering walk in the countryside, down lanes and gravel walkways. Rounding a bend we came upon this house.

Carnac is on the Bay of Quiberon.

This is not a worm. Something underneath extruded the sand; I saw it happen. But I didn’t see what did it. Dug around and nothing came up. I think it could dig faster than I.

I’d love to have been here just a few weeks earlier when the weather was still good. We’ve fallen off the shoulder season and are heading down the back. Time to come home. Weather has been rainy and chill, and looks to continue in that vein for the rest of our time here. Fortunately, except for two mornings past, it has not kept us in. Though it did keep us from going to Île aux Moines (Isle of the Monks) this morning. It was going to be windy and rainy there. Only 600 or so inhabit the island, so the whole purpose was to walk around (literally around) the island and enjoy the beaches.

Wednesday the 18th. We’ve been so fortunate with weather this trip. Just the one really rainy afternoon on the Chemin and now, today. It was a good day to read and watch a little TV with French subtitles. We also got out for a few walks, one in the rain and wind and another with sun breaking through.

We arrived Monday around 2. The quintessential French woman greeted us at our rental. Tall, spike heels, trim of figure in a fitted dress with narrow belt around her waist. Red lipstick 💄.

After lunch in our garden, La veille ville beckoned. It’s a leisurely 20 minute stroll. It’s Bretagne, so the half timbered houses are present as is part of the ramparts.

We took a long walk from the port, along the marina, to the Gulf of Morbihan.

We cut off from the marina at one point when I saw a side path and came upon this:

We also came upon Philip who told us that people gather here every Wednesday night at 6:30 to pray. We did not go there tonight to verify. He loves Vannes, born and raised here. He’s an avid bicyclist and Vannes has plenty of bike routes.

Being outside of old town, we see lots of construction of new apartment buildings. Some already inhabited, some near completion. We wonder where all the people are coming from to live here.

We’re looking forward to getting out of town tomorrow to see the menhirs of Carnac. Hoping for less wind and rain than today.

May you all be well and finding what peace you can.

Sitting in the rail station at Rennes waiting for the train to Vannes. A bedraggled woman approaches. Matted hair. Shuffling. Drool hanging from chin. Could I help her with some change? I had some and held it in my palm, thinking to transfer it to hers. But no. She held my hand, palm up and picked through the change, taking the 50 centimes piece as well as the 20 and 10 centimes coins, leaving behind the 1 and 2 cent coins. With a “merci” she moved on to the next person.

I guess beggars can be choosers.

Anoter easy day trip by train from Rennes. We took the 7:35 to arrive at market for breakfast. We had been here in 2011 with my mom, using Dinan as base from which to visit Mont St. Michel in Normandy. Both of us remembered liking it and  the market, and not having enough time here. We weren’t disappointed with our return.

Dinan is possibly one of the more photo worthy medieval towns. I finally just stopped taking photos because everywhere I looked was something interesting or charming or quirky.

Dinan has ramparts, but not much of them are walkable. The town administrators sold off parts of them to private owners. But there is one part on the backside of the St. Saveur Basilica, beyond its garden.

As we were at market early, we didn’t buy much food to haul around, but enjoyed appreciating the freshness and the variety. I have vowed to visit our own growers’ market more regularly next season.

The strap to the leather bag that I use when traveling broke while we were still on the Chemin. I managed to make it work with a small carabiner. Luch was with me though as I found a beautiful replacement at this market.

I also found a sweater, which I promptly donned due to an unexpected chill in the air, and a blouse. I thought I might make it through this trip with just the clothes I packed. They were too nice and too good a deal to pass up!

We’ve been easily logging 12 and more miles a day as we cruise around towns. That necessitates a break.

The St. Saveur Basilica had some unusual items.

Saw this in a window – more Chemins in France from various areas. Something to consider for future.

It’s Sunday night and the kids are  not out crowding the pubs. It’s so intriguing that weeknights are party nights and weekends are not. I was halfway hoping they’d be back so I could video the chant. I’m glad they aren’t though as the quiet is welcome.

The weather has turned. It’s autumn and the days are chilly. We even put the heat on in the apartment tonight. And now I bid you Adieu.

I’ve read that there are about 70,000 university students in Rennes. We are staying in an apartment not far from the University of Rennes. I don’t know if there are other colleges here. We are in the “hyper centre” of Rennes. It seems we are in the center of the greatest concentration of cafes. Also in the historic center of the city as witnessed by photos I posted earlier.

We had no idea of course when we booked this place just what the neighborhood would be like.

We arrived last Monday, the 9th. Every weeknight, just outside our apartment, throngs of young people gather to drink and to sing and to pound tables. Fortunately, we have good, pretty well sound-proofed windows. We wondered what the weekend would be like, given the level of party-city that occured on weeknights.

Lo, it’s the quietest it’s been all week! Do students go home for the weekend?

I do wish I’d taken photos and a video of the revelry one of these past weeknights. Thought I’d have my chance on the weekend. Foiled!  Unless, students return Sunday night to get oiled for the grueling school week…