Well, sort of…
We began our day with ramble through the Recoleta Cemetery, where Evita Perón is interred. Or maybe not interred, so much as stored. The cemetery takes up a good size city block and is chock-a-block with crypts, one after the other. Some are really big – housing a chapel as well as numerous caskets. There may be stairs going down to the subterranean level where more caskets are stored. Some are in a sorry state of disarray. The glass is broken. The plaster roof is falling in. The doors are open to anyone wanting to enter. That would be me. I guess family members have moved away or the line died out – or sorriest of all – maybe they just don’t care.
Here are a few. photos.
Say a prayer for the forlorn.
Recoleta Cemetery Skyline
This is one of the sweeter, more modern statuaries at the cemetery. I love the fresh flowers placed by her hand. Her name is Liliana Corciati de Szaszak. She was in Innsbruck, Austria 26 February, 1970. An avalanche hit her hotel, killing her. Her tomb was designed by her mother. She is depicted wearing her wedding dress. After her dog Sabú died, a bronze statue was added. Her father wrote a poem in Italian to her which adorns a dais.
Charlie and I wonder if Recoleta Cemetary is still in use. I haven’t been able to find that information. But I don’t think so. It seems there would be a website with that information so you could purchase your forever spot. No room, though. Maybe only families who already have a mausoleum – and who still have room – get to rest there eternally. If room is tight, there’s always the option of ashes in a box.
By the way, I did enter one of the open crypts. It was small. There were two wooden boxes. They did not open and they were afixed. Looking down through the open grate in the floor I saw at least 10 caskets, one stacked on the other in two columns.
We never did find Evita’s site. There is no map. We didn’t try that hard either. There was a sign directing visitors to former President Domingo Faustino Sarmiento’s mausoleum which included a wall loaded with plaques honoring him for his many contributions to Argentina, like founding the Naval Academy, for instance. Sarmiento is the only resident with a sign pointing the way to his abode.
Here is something I noticed about Buenos Aries today. Sometimes, in the middle of the city, it can get very quite. Like at Recoleta Cemetery. It was peaceful. The surrounding wall helps. But even when a major traffic artery is not far, if a park is on one side, it buffers the traffic tremendously.
I think that is all I’ll write for today. This closing photograph provides a glimpse of the old and the new and a swatch of green from one of the many parks in the city. Oh, the grass is so spongy soft!
Alas I could have led you to Evita’s tomb, I have taken clients many times. My understanding is that if a family has a crypt/mausoleum it can still be used for their dearly departed as long as there is space.
The photos you and Charlie have sent bring back soooo many memories of the times we have been in BA. We stayed in a Boutique Hotel in Recoleta the last time. It had just opened and was quite reasonable. We did find Eva Peron’s crypt. Nothing special as I recall but I loved being in the cemetery. Are you enjoying the food, the wine? We ate wonderful Italian food. A former student of Lew’s lives there and took us to great neighborhood restaurants. Have you seen tango performed yet? That was one of my favorite pastimes. We went to several “espectaculares” and watched tango performed on the streets as well. Took classes upon our return. I would like to visit BA again but am not sure it would be a good idea at this time of our lives. Keep on enjoying your time and I’ll enjoy it with you. Mary Lynn
We went to a tango show at the Centro Cultural Borges. It was perfect. I hpe to see more tango on the streets this weekend. We leave for Uruguay on Monday!
Beautiful photos. Very elegiac. Nice to read on Ash Wednesday,
Would love to hear more about your out of this world trip.