Shared Illusions

Three nights and two days passed quickly here. Weekends are quiet. Except for the two kids next door who have been at it all afternoon and into the evening. It got so bad I had to put in my earbuds and watch Frankie and Grace on my computer. Ed had his head phones on and slept through it. So, this is what apartment living is like. Pour me some more wine.

Ah. Sorry. Nothing like starting off a post with my own whining.

We went out for breakfast yesterday for the first time since being on this trip. By the time we made it to the grocery store Friday night, it was closed. Anyway, I had a plan for going to Cafe Brasiliero, which I’d read about. It is the city’s oldest cafe, founded in 1877. In the past, you might have found the literati sitting at a table discussing the political front or drafting a new novel. Now, you’ll find tourists. Actually, there were a couple of locals. I could tell because it was about 11 in the morning and they were drinking Fernet.

Fernet – it’s another of those cultural drinks, like mate that I’ve yet to try. I think it’s a bit like Aperol or Campari, from what I’ve read. Slightly bitter and medicinal tasting. I just read that the making of Fernet uses an enormous amount of saffron! So, it must be expensive.

Cafe Brasilero:

We wandered Ciudad Vieja yesterday. A lot of stores were closed. This one wasn’t and now I’m sorry I didn’t take advantage of their sale.

Antiques are big business down here in Buenos Aires and Montevideo. Well, I don’t know  if they are big business, but there are a lot of them, sold in stores and street markets.

One of these days I’m going to re-outfit my dinnerware with mis-matched, but coordinating dinnerware. I’ll pick up a few lamps too.

The day turned quite chilly, cloudy, and windy yesterday. The Rio de la Plata was whipped into a frenzy. It was exhilarating.

We popped into a cafe for a warming glass of wine. After sitting there for quite a while, we began chatting with another couple who were enjoying a warming hot chocolate and churros. They live in Santiago, Chile – our next destination. We got on quite well and exchanged names and contact information. Tom is from York, England; Cristina is Chilean. They met while she was studying for her master’s in piano in York. They’re here for a few more days, but since we extended our trip in Santiago, we should be able to connect.

As mentioned in another post regarding cathedrals and churches and churches and their lack of prevalence in Argentina, the same seems to be true in Uruguay. But we did pop into the Metropolitan Cathedral. I apologize for the lack of crispness in the following photo, but I just loved this dancing angel.

While Buenos Aires is known as having more bookstores per capita than any other country, Montevideo must be a close second. We did read that Uruguay has the highest literacy rate of any South American country. And we have seen many bookstores in our wanderings. They all have their own charm, inside and out.

Another thing we appreciate about Montevideo are the leafy, tree-lined streets. The sidewalks, however, are another matter.  They are often crumbling, broken trip hazards. Sometimes they have creative coverings. It certainly keeps you aware.

And they don’t usually have the tape to warn you. Part of the problem is that those shade providing trees break up the tiles, small pieces are left strewn about, and the sidewalks are all wonky with trees roots undermining man’s attempt to level the surface. Go, tree roots!

Today we experienced the crush of the open air market. Goods for sale aside from fresh fruits and vegetables: costume jewelry, underwear, kitchen ware, cell phone accoutrements, clothing, beer on tap, batteries, fresh squeezed oj, (I had some yesterday – oh, so sweet! Oranges here are a wonder of taste and juiciness.) tools… And I don’t know what this man was selling, but I think it’s foraged. He had a customer, so I reckon it’s legit.

Sunday. Today. A stroll to the barrio Pocitos. Great for the playa and that’s about it. On a Sunday, anyway. I read in another blog that it’s THE place to stay, to be. We prefer our barrio of Parque Rodó. I did love swimming in the Rio de la Plata today and sunning myself in the sand. Charlie has that photo on his post. He called me a crusty old lady. Pig.

Here are the beach and the Rambla along the river in barrio Pocitos.

And I leave you wtih this bit of advice:

Con mucho amor, Paula