Split – part deux

We returned to Split for 4 nights, 3 days, arriving late on the 7th October, a Friday. Saturday found us in Trogir, a tiny island a 45 minute plush bus ride away – getting there. We enjoyed wandering the many narrow streets, finding charming courtyards, a church (and another bell tower to climb!), a fort, and a youth fútbol game. The game was sparsely, but enthusiastically attended, the chants and cheers rousing! The bus ride on the return was a different matter as we found ourselves on the local stopping every ten feet. Unlike the buses in Albuquerque this one was well used!

Emerging from the ceiling
Skulls and crossbones and the Christ
Fútbol from the fort

At some point I decided I wanted to attend mass at St. Dominus Cathedral, the one that was originally Diocletian’s mausoleum. Ed decided to join me. We put on our Sunday best for the event. Most people were casually dressed, though one woman was outfitted head to toe in an acqua color ensemble, with a hat that you might have found adorning the head of Queen Elizabeth.

Raised Catholic, but not attending mass for the past 45+ years I noticed that I could tell the prayers being recited by the rhythms, by the actions accompanying them. The format was so familiar. There was genuine warmth in the smiles and eyes of those greeted during the handshake of peace.

And then it was time to hit the beach! It was a perfect day – not too hot, a gentle breeze, the water cool and deliciously clear.

Kasjuni Beach
Split from Marjan Park overlook and café, post beach climb and respite

Marjan Park and Bene Beach

Marjan Park is on a peninsula of land jutting into the Adriatic. It’s known as the lungs of the city. It is lush and steep and has many informative plaques along it’s many paths. We walked 12 miles on Monday exploring and making our way to and back from Bene Beach (my least favorite of the 5 beaches on the Dalmatia Coast we went to.)

One of several bunkers left from WWI
St. Jérôme
Hermitage of St. Jérôme built into the cliff wall
One of many drystone walls
Do you see her?
The muscles in her back!

This wall is noted on the park map for rock climbing. We felt fortunate to witness some action.

Another magical moment:

Watching the full moon emerge from the clouds as we sat on the steps of the Peristil in the Diocletian Palace.

And then, suddenly, it was time to say goodbye to Split. And hello again to Zagreb. It’s a good feeling to return to a foreign city and have it not be foreign.

Tomorrow – Vienna! We’ll have just a late afternoon and evening ada stopover on our way to Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic. So, until then, I bid you ‘dobro dan’!

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