Shared Illusions

A very fine beginning on Le Chemin. Cool and overcast, no rain, we had an easy day: just 16.9 km/10.35 miles. The pack feels fine now that I received some tips on packing, where to settle the main weight, and how to use the load straps. The Caminho Portugues could have been so much more comfortable.

St. Roch was a healer back during the plague. After his pilgrimage to Compostella, he traveled around providing healing to those who contracted the plague. Until, that is, he came down with the plague himself. Then he was shunned and lived alone, only squeaking by due to a dog that would bring him bread. This is why he is always depicted with a dog by his side, and his robe lifted to show his plague wound. A Pilgrim shell and gourd are also included, so don’t confuse him with St. Jacques!

We had a very comfy stay here. But we didn’t stay in that building. The owners, Anne and Didier, live above. A few rooms for pilgrims and the kitchen and dining room are below. We were 20 pilgrims gathered around the dining table, along with Anne and Didier, and the only English speakers. Everyone else was French. They were all very kind to compliment my ragged French. Mostly they carried on in a voluble way with lots of laughter. I wish I’d been born in France. I’m a Francophile for sure.

Dinner was delicious, multi-coursed, and filling: vegetable quiche and salad (with veggies from their garden), green lentils of Le Puy with sausage, rice, cheese, various desserts: a clafouti, a banana cake, a grape tart. A lot! Only thing missing was the wine! We could have bought a glass or a pitcher, but as no one else was drinking, we eschewed it as well. Did have a glass earlier…

That’s the day (14 sept), mostly in photos. I’m a day behind because we had terrible wifi there. Maybe I’ll get to today, today, but maybe not till tomorrow!