Day 12, sept. 26, Conques

Yesterday was our last day on Chemin. I have mixed emotions. On one hand, it’s exciting to be moving ahead with plans to visit other parts of France. On the other, I’ll miss the walking, the sights, running into pilgrims we’ve met on trail and exchanging news.

We had a short day yesterday after our grueling hike the day before. Fortunately, our stay in Senergues was delightful. An English couple had ditched life across the channel, bought a 3 level place (formerly a post office), and turned it into a gîte. They have just 2 rooms to let, and offer dinner and breakfast. Good thing too as the only café in town was closed. There is an epicerie, but it was closed in the afternoon.

Dinner was cooked by Julie of local fare. Delicious. We were joined by a Swiss couple, French speaking with some English. We had amiable conversations.

I loved our room.

Although we were late and the Tower of Senergues was past hours, the owner opened for us.

From our window- church to right and tower behind the tree
View from tower looking in the direction from which we walked.
Church steeple, typical of the region

We were out early that morning and had a long walk before lunch. I was getting cranky, but held out for a good spot – ith Ed’s encouragement. Thank goodness! We rounded a corner and beheld this. It was a bit like Dorothy opening the door of her house after it settled in Oz.

And just across the street…

Ideal lunch spot, made better when a woman from that dear little house brought us fresh tomatoes from her garden. That made the bread and cheese sandwich.

Leaving so early in the morning it was quite chilly and misty in the valley and over the Lot River.

6 am, from our window
Also 6 am from the window
The Lot River, formerly known as the Olt, in Celt (I believe…)
Fairy hammocks amidst the broom
Looking back at the shrouded valley.

There was quite a bit of pavement walking, which is generally not easy on the feet, but after trekking over so many rocks, it was a relief.

Lots of folks stopped in Galinhac, which made for a long trek for them into Conques. And the entry into Conques is – yes – steep and rocky! Ran into one guy we’d met a few times along the way and he was beat! So, it worked out for us.

In addition, the apartment we rented for our 2 night stay is on the top of the hill before the descent into the village! And it is oh so steep – even without pack the legs feel it.

Next year when we return to continue the Chemin, we’ll ship our packs from Conques to the next stop. No need to flagellate.

Here’s our place in Conques.

First level window on the right is our room.
Where the stove/oven is, would have originally been the large hearth.
It’s really comfortable.
We met Clinton, on the left, a few days ago. He’s from Canada. Met Jenny and Mike, from England, today.

Clinton, from Canada, had to hit the road this afternoon. We’re meeting Jenny and Mike for dinner to celebrate the completion of her Master’s – with distinction!

More tomorrow…or the next day. Tomorrow we take a bus to Le Puy, then a train to Lyon, and then a train to Avignon. It’ll be a long day – with not enough walking!

8 thoughts on “Day 12, sept. 26, Conques

  1. Christine L McCullough's avatar Christine L McCullough September 26, 2023 / 10:04 am

    Phew, tired just thinking of all that walking, but also envious as I still sit confined as my shoulder heals. Wish I was there.

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    • pgsteele4's avatar pgsteele4 September 26, 2023 / 10:21 am

      You’re in my prayers as I sit in sacred buildings and walk in healing nature. I hope the photos provide some relief 😌

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  2. Linnea Hendrickson's avatar Linnea Hendrickson September 26, 2023 / 1:22 pm

    I’m going to miss following your Chemin, but there is a lot more to see in France, for sure. Looks like a beautiful place to stay in Conques. But lots of steep climbs, for sure!

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    • pgsteele4's avatar pgsteele4 September 27, 2023 / 12:08 pm

      I’m going to miss the Chemin. My Achilles tendon acting up a bit and the ankle is cranky. When we return, rest days every 10-12 days or so may be necessary.

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  3. Pamela's avatar Pamela September 27, 2023 / 11:07 am

    Early morning pics are lovely!

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    • pgsteele4's avatar pgsteele4 September 27, 2023 / 12:07 pm

      Thanks. It made being up and out so early easier.

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  4. Laurie Carleton's avatar Laurie Carleton October 7, 2023 / 1:25 pm

    Will you be my tour guide. Please💗😍

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    • pgsteele4's avatar pgsteele4 October 7, 2023 / 11:47 pm

      Time for another trip together…

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