Saturday 25 mai (when I started this post)

Where to begin? It feels like days since I posted, though it was only  the night b4 last. That should give you an idea of what yesterday was like.

We left Figeac around 9. The guidebook stated that the 19.25 mile hike would take about 8.5 hours. 10 hours and closer to 23 miles later, we arrived. Has to be an error. Part of the problem was that the Gîte was another 1.5 miles out of town, which we didn’t realize when we booked it. So we didn’t get to see Cajarc.

There was some harsh going with ascents, descents, mud, and rocky terrain. I was a wreck after 15 miles and wanted to hitch a ride. Better judgment and support from Ed prevailed and helped a lot.  I also kept thinking of people on long, tough marches with greater loads to bear and not nearly so well fed.  And though I was in a sour mood some of the time, I also found the strength to muscle through.

Then the Gîte wasn’t so comfortable, and I was annoyed with the French people at dinner for a variety of reasons, none of which made sense in reality, but that’s the mood I was in.

Now for some photos from that days walk, Figeac to Cajarc.

Ciao, Figeac
It’s impossible to capture just how bright, how luminous are poppies. They make a hard trek endurable.
Faycelles, one of the most charming and petite villages so far
Leaving Faycelles
Perfect day for an exceptionally long hike, Figeac to Cajarc
Alien menhir leaving the earthly plane. Someone or someones,  have taken to providing artwork on some of the larger flatter stones in the ancient walls.
Cajarc from on high.
Looking back from whence we’d come. It was a long, rocky, tiresome descent.

Somewhere along the way on the day, I stopped to take a pebble from my shoe in the middle of a paved country lane. Sometime later, not too long grace a Dieu, I reached for my phone. I just knew it had slipped from my pocket. Running back, I prayed that another had found it, that a car wouldn’t come by. An approaching pilgrim recognized my panic, and before I could say anything, pulled it from her fanny pack. Two seconds later, a car came by. The Camino knows how to play games with you.

Here’s another Camino episode of salvation. After that strenuous day, and being so so tired, we decided to take two days in Cahors, after one easy day to Varaires from Cajarc, and one more long arduous trek, Varaires to Cahors. In our zombie state of mind, we booked an apartment in Cahors,  then realized Malle Postale could not deliver there since no-one would be there to accept them. No way did I want to carry my pack on another 20 mile route, even if it was a relatively easy day, length and terrain-wise. Divine intervention stepped in again when I received confirmation from the apartment and saw that the owners also had a hotel! I called and asked if our host if our packs could be delivered there. Bless the man, he agreed and even said he’d deliver them to the apartment! And thanks be, because somehow we got off route and onto a variant. Our 20 mile day became 23 miles.

I was so bone tired. Ed too. We had dinner at the closest place we could find, even though all it served was charcuterie boards. I was thrilled when olives were delivered to the table.

Now for photos, Cajarc to Varaires, May 27:

I just love love love this place.
So happy to be feeling good in the morning and on our way.
An older gentleman created this quirky rest stop a few kilometers from Cajarc. We stopped for coffee and homemade apple tart. Plus water available!
Many of these defunct puits (wells) along the way.
What?! Sculpture and a resting place
80,000 scallop shells!
Books and benches
I love love love this.
In Limogne-en-Quercy – fun shop, but only if you’re driving!
In Varaire
Thoughtful seating
Our Gîte in Varaire – really comfortable and well done.

That’s all for now. Will get caught up on Varaire to Cahors tomorrow!

9 thoughts on “Saturday 25 mai (when I started this post)

  1. bcastlelaw's avatar bcastlelaw May 27, 2024 / 3:28 pm

    What an adventure! Your photos are terrific – what pretty towns and landscape!

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    • pgsteele4's avatar pgsteele4 May 28, 2024 / 6:52 am

      I’ll get a photo or two of great French meals that actually have food on the plate

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  2. Linnea Hendrickson's avatar Linnea Hendrickson May 27, 2024 / 4:33 pm

    What adventures! So glad you got your phone back! Beautiful pictures! Why are you walking such long distances?

    We are starting home from Bali this afternoon.

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    • pgsteele4's avatar pgsteele4 May 27, 2024 / 11:24 pm

      One reason, not carrying our packs. Discovered that those distances are still too long! But at least one leg couldn’t be broken up. Anyway, we are breaking up legs now. Got the Miam Miam at the Cahors tourist office as it lists more options for places. And good French practice for me! How long will it take to get home?

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  3. Jin's avatar Jin May 27, 2024 / 6:38 pm

    Great photos and descriptions as always 🙂 . The pics from the travels would make nice calendars at X-mas. 😉

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    • pgsteele4's avatar pgsteele4 May 27, 2024 / 11:15 pm

      I appreciate that – thanks, Jim!

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  4. Laurie Carleton's avatar Laurie Carleton May 27, 2024 / 8:17 pm

    amazing.

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  5. John Ganster's avatar John Ganster May 28, 2024 / 6:21 am

    Paula & Charlie, Loving the photos and posts you’ve sent out. This last shows it’s not always a walk in the park so to speak, but an arduous effort for one’s body to trek so far. Seeing the two of you in walking attire and with all your belongings strapped on your backs indicates how adventurous you are to me. Thanks for sharing.

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    • pgsteele4's avatar pgsteele4 May 28, 2024 / 7:17 am

      We’re going to get better about breaking up those long treks. They’re hard even with just a day pack! Tomorrow we carry our packs about 9.5 miles to our next stop in Grenèjoules.

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