Where does the time go?!

I last posted in Cahors. Since then we’ve stayed in Granèjouls, Montcuq, Lauzerte, and right now we are just outside of Moissac. We arrived at the early hour of 2:45! A 12 mile day makes such a difference. And we are the only ones here, so I finally have time.

Tomorrow night, we’ll stay in Moissac, taking a rest day before heading to Auvillar on Monday,  June 3.

The two nights before last we were asleep by 9:30. After full days of walking, exploring a bit, showering,  and having dinner, plus using my brain to speak French, we’re pretty exhausted. Last night though was a party. There were 18 of us at Gîte La Ferme Parry. The hosts like to provide a proper many course meal, though in a down to earth manner. We started with aperitif of either kir or whiskey. Red wine with dinner, tea and eau de vie after dinner. We had soup, duck rillettes, which is OMG delicious, pasta, duck sausage, cheese, and fruit salad for dessert. Bread, bien sur. Rillettes is shredded whatever, in this case duck and prepared I don’t know how. But I plan to find a recipe. La Ferme Parry is a working farm, specializing in duck and various fruits. There were some English speakers there, so that helped Ed. Me too,  tbh. We didn’t get to bed til after 11. I slept deeply and soundly.

Yves (l) and Marie (r) at head of table, les propriétaires

In Granéjouls we stayed in an older woman’s grandfather’s house. She lives next door in a converted barn. She must be in her late 70’s herself, at least. Very friendly and a singer, as a hobby, but a retired pharmacist. She sang for us at breakfast  – microphone and music accompaniment, via computer. She also provided the tradional menu complet of entrée of a piperade tart, main dish of cassoulet, cheese course and dessert, which was croustade au pomme.

Most places have put on some great meals, even when cooking for many.

View from the Gîte Pech d’Huguet
Dove cote at the Gîte
Something I found charming on the on the way to Granèjouls.
Black Madonna

In Moncuq, we stayed at Gîte Soulleilou, which is the Occitane language for little sun. I thought it was a play on soul+sun+ou, a mélange of French and English. The living area was very comfortable. Upstairs in the bedroom the smell of citronella was strong. I opened the window wide for fresh air. I can’t abide citronella!

Moncuq is a dear small town, about 50% French and 50% Brits and Dutch, we were told by the Irish owner of Restaurant le 6. We stopped by there for a drink and dinner (eschewing the pilgrim dinner at the Gîte) after touring the town. I had such a good glass of wine 🍷 that I had a second.

If you can find this, get it! And only 4E a glass!

On the way to Moncuq:

I especially like this cross.
The white stone architecture of the area.
A cazelle – shelter for farm workers or sheep or used for storage. Mentioned as far back as 15th C, most constructed in 19th C as population increased and the land was cleared for vineyards or other agriculture. We saw so many of them! In one area they were referred to as cabanes.

In Moncuq:

Moncuq is sometimes pronounced like mon cul(cou), which means my ass. Therefore, there are many jokes referring to one’s derrière. Hence this sculpture in town. However, most do pronounce the q. And I read that cuq is a transliteration from old Celt, kuk, meaning small hill.

I think it was somewhere along this day that my long toe was hurting – to the point that I fantasized about having the tip surgically removed. It’s ridiculously long! But then it stopped hurting. So. Aches just seem to move around the body. They dissipate and take up residence elsewhere.

First time we’ve seen a way marker that says Via Podiensis.
Moncuq and Ed

Yesterday on the way to Lauzerte, we saw some beautiful fields of flowers and wheat.

Field of flax
Wheat – this brings to mind a painting by Van Gogh:
Something similar, anyway…
Lavender, though not it bloom, the air was still redolent with its aroma.
Hamlet of Rouillac
Black Madonna in Rouillac Chapel
This farmer, on his tractor hauling logs, set up this table with coffee and apples for pilgrims. By donation. He also has table and chairs set up in the barn nearby. People are often so generous and thoughtful.

In Lauzerte:

Mohawk boy in medieval building
Central square
Tools as sculpture. I first thought it was a clock!
Medieval charm
Lauzerte left behind, as we headed for our Gîte, La Ferme Parry, about another 4 miles out of Lauzerte. That made a 15 or so mile day.

Seen on the way to the Gîte:

Another dove cote, in France, c’est un pigeonnier.
Pilgrims might have found this offering of water.
I rang the bell.
Inside – very plain
We’ve been witnessing some very dramatic skies. It’s much cooler than usual here, which works in our favor. It’s been very comfortable waking weather.  Only two rainy days so far, not too hard, not windy. Quite nice, really.

I’ll close this with these 2 photos:

Morning pilgrims
Afternoon pilgrims

We’ve hiked with and shared meals, and sometimes lodging, with this group for two days. We’ll likely not see them again as they all hiked into Moissac and we’re staying 4 kms outside of it. Plus which, we’re staying in Moissac tomorrow night. They’ll be long gone. New acquaintances will be made and lost. Life on the Chemin…

Bonne soirée! !

5 thoughts on “Where does the time go?!

  1. Linnea Hendrickson's avatar Linnea Hendrickson June 1, 2024 / 2:47 pm

    Sounds like all is going very well! Beautiful scenery and wonderful to have the weather cooperate! I know about the aches and pains moving around in the body — they come and go inexplicably! You never know when you’ll see some of the same folks again even when you don’t expect to. And delicious meals! You’ll get lots of duck foing forward, and you’ll see lots of ducks, too! I wish I was walking, too! Ultreia!

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  2. bcastlelaw's avatar bcastlelaw June 1, 2024 / 4:31 pm

    Paula –

    Great photos and a grand journey. I loved the photo of a flax field and the black madonnas – and everything else!

    Is “Ed” Charlie? I am a little confused about that.

    Have a wonderful time!

    Bruce

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    • pgsteele4's avatar pgsteele4 June 1, 2024 / 10:40 pm

      Hello, Bruce! Thank you for commenting. Ed is Charlie. His name is Charles Edward. When we met, he mostly went by Ed with his group of friends. Work people knew him as Charlie. He now introduces himself as Charlie and I often use both! You are not the first to be confused.:-)

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  3. bryade's avatar bryade June 3, 2024 / 11:30 am

    How lovely! And you had eau de vie! Many bruno-ish items here, im so jealous of this now i have to go!!  

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    • pgsteele4's avatar pgsteele4 June 3, 2024 / 12:53 pm

      So much duck – I’m delighted!

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