Shared Illusions

That flaky, almond paste filled delectable pastry was a great energizer mid-morning (June 15).

We made our way from Arzacq-Arrazigueta to Pomps – the one French word where all the letters are pronounced,  even the s. But we didn’t stay in Pomps, we went another few miles to Morlanne, yet another of Frances’s prettiest villages. There’s a 14th c chateau,  but it was closed for construction.

There’s a 13th c church with a painted apse.

We have stayed in some old farmhouses and some more modern homes. I have to say that I’m quite the voyeureuse, enjoying the opportunity to see inside others’ homes, to be surprised and delighted by what is prepared for dinner. 3-4 courses prevails. Last night a brothy soup with carrots, zucchini, garlic, leek, white beans. Sounds heavy, but it was light and flavorful. Greens with a slice of duck paté- really good paté lo. Duck breast with the tastiest potatoes, fried in duck fat. Crêpes with light brown sugar inside and apricot confiture. Dang, I shouldn’t be writing about it – 2 hours till dinner!

Here’s tonight’s digs:

I don’t get to see much of this interior- just the Gîte part. Which is the difference really between a Gîte and a chambre d’Hote. Gîtes are more shared room or your own room, but like a dormitory. In a Chambre d’Hote you have your own room in someone’s home. Sometimes with shower in the room, toilet not. Usually, both are out of the room. It’s just a bedroom in a home, after all.

Tonight we are in a room with 2 bunk beds and it’s all ours.

This Gîte also has “roulettes” – kind of like sweet little gypsy cabins for 1 person. Definitely no shower or toilet within.

Today was sunny, hot, and clear. The Pyrenees reappeared after hiding behind clouds yesterday.

Here’s more info on why some village signs are upside down.

Farmers are turning the signs upside down as a form of protest. The movement began in the Occitane region and has spread throughout the country. It’s to call attention to the topsy-turvy world of paradoxical government interference and regulations: don’t use certain fertilizers, but grow enough food to make France food independent; pay your farm labor more, but keep food prices down. These are just a few examples of the tortuous, left hand doesn’t know what the right hand is doing. Moreover, ridiculous rules are being made by bureaucrats who have zero knowledge of the realities of farming – or of managing a regular life. They’re just fat cats living large who think they know what’s best. A lot of French people are tired of the malarkey. Hence, the vote on June 9th that put Macron’s government on notice. Even with my limited French, I can discern that much.

On to something completely different. Architecture has changed…

There’s a concert at the local church tonight, about 3/4 mile away. I thought I’d go, but now I see it’s too late. And man, even not carrying the big pack, after walking only 10 miles, I’m tired. Food would help. Hoping dinner is at 7, not 7:30.

I’ll close with this hedge of voluminous hydrangeas.

We are again the only English speakers at a good size gite. I love hearing everyone speaking, but it is challenging to keep up and engage. That’s part of the reason I like chambres d’hôtes. They’re smaller and you often get to dine and converse with the hosts, and one or two others. It’s manageable. And more enjoyable.

So much for closing. Now, I’m done. A plus tard!