Diocletian was a Roman emperor who ruled from 284 to 305. His imperial residence\military fortress\fortified town took 10 years to build. Built in the 3rd and 4th centuries! Much of it still standing. Lustrous white stone imported from the island of Brač; marbles from Italy and Greece, sphinxes from Egypt.

And while much is still standing, much has changed over the millennia. What you find here in the labyrinthine streets are shops, bars, restaurants and lots of people. The historical aspects include the Peristil, a colonnaded courtyard (with the gorgeous Hotel Luxor on one side) that still boasts one of those 12 sphinxes; the Cathedral of St. Domnius, octagonal in shape and one of the best-preserved Roman buildings still standing. Ironically it was built as a mausoleum for Diocletian, last famous persecutor of the Christians.

There is also access to a tall Romanesque Bell tower, the treasury which is rich in reliquaries, icons, illuminated manuscripts, etc., and the baptistry, which was originally the Temple of Jupiter, king of the gods, and guarded by another of those imported sphinxes. BTW, those sphinxes we’re literally defaced by the Christians as they were considered to be pagan images.

There was a lot to see within this complex. And that’s mostly what there is to see in Split. There are intriguing areas near Split, so we’ll return post Dubrovnik.

Last image is a photo of our room window, just because I love the exposed stone and brick.

AND NOW – Korčula! (Pronounced Kór-chula)

It’s a 2.5 hour ferry ride from split to Korčula, including a stop at Hvar Island where all the young folk disembark, that is to say, most of the people on the ferry.

Thank goodness we are here during the shoulder season! It must be unbearable in high season, with the narrow meandering streets and stairways packed wall-to-wall. (Same can be said for Split.) This is a perfect time for a visit – still sunny and warm, the Adriatic Sea still swimmable, and not overrun by tourists.

Korčula Town is small and designed in a fishbone layout to best take advantage of cooling winds in summer and to protect from cold buffeting winds of winter. There are directions of winds involved, but I don’t remember the details.

We climbed another tower. Saw another ancient cathedral. I love it all. Each is so distinctly different. There are so many details to relish.

Korčula is also known for is wine and olives. We had both the red and the white and found them to be smooth and flavorful. Unfortunately, we are both sneezing and sniffling, so taking it easy on the intake. I still swam in the clear gorgeous waters today! And had a grand time sifting through the smooth rounded pebbles that make up the beach. Some are coming home with me.

Good night! Sweet dreams.

We spent the better part of yesterday in what turned into sunny Zagreb after an overcast start to the day. Market setup started early in the morning, probably because it was raining the night before. It really is an everyday occurrence!

After breakfast at the same place as the day before – cuz it’s the best around – we headed to the Stone Gate, eastern entry to medieval Grade Town, which is now a shrine. The story goes that a fire destroyed the wooden gate except for the painting of the Virgin and Child. There are a few pews there to pray. You can buy a candle and light it for extra points. Plaques cover the walls with thanks for miraculous intercessions and cures. I sent my prayers heavenward.

I was looking through my photos and recognized a number of them are homages to people. To artists and victims and the dead. To those who have gone before and are known for something special or just known – by someone… We do like to honor our predecessors – flaws and all – for who doesn’t have flaws? And shouldn’t we be allowed to honor those who did the best they could in the time in which they lived? To judge actions of the past based on today’s understanding and evolution of being -ness seems folly. Anyway, herewith some photos…

Now to end the evening I’ll just say a little something about smokers in Croatia. They smoke a lot! Or are cigarettes stronger here? Maybe it’s more noticeable in Croatia because we’ve had better weather, hence are eating outdoors where smoking is allowed.

By the way, I swam in the crystal clear water of the Adriatic Sea today. I forgot to get a pic of the beach, but here’s one from the harbor, looking back at Split.

Actually, I think windows to our room are visible in this photo. It’s a good room in a less than stellar location. Restaurants line the waterfront and revelers we’re out late late late. Worse, an odor of sewer gas (no seamstresses or tailors involved) wafted up. In fact, I don’t understand how anyone can eat at those outdoor establishments. Ok

¡Ya basta! Good night from here. Good afternoon to you there.

I really like Zagreb. It’s got charm and an easy feeling. It’s not as touristy as Prague, nor as beautiful. It’s not as run down as Budapest. Nor as big. It’s also one of the greenest, meaning lots of trees, cities. In addition, it’s the smallest capital city. It’s a great place to wander and to allow it to reveal itself. Thinking this could be a great home base. We had some sunny weather today – warmest since we’ve been in central Europe. Such a glorious day that we meandered and entered nary a museum. Photos forthwith… I don’t often post food pics, but this cup and this meal were so artistic I must.

The assortment of fruits, veggies, honey, cheese was dizzying. I so wanted to buy and cook and sample and try. As it was I bought a half kilo of tiny grapes from an old woman who was selling her lonely stash on a lonely table corner. They were jewels – and so sticky sweet! I munched on them all morning.

Yesterday we happened upon the oldest pub in Zagreb and met the young (to us) owner. Here is a post on Tripadvisor :

The oldest pub in Zagreb – Pod Starim Krovovima

Place of old more than 100 years, has always been a gathering place of artists and various artists. In the pub was filmed cult film TKO PJEVA ZLO NE MISLI

We returned tonight for a musician, singer with the national theatre. In the video everyone is singing along with a favorite Croatian song about the city of Zagreb. Everyone there, save us, was a local. It was a packed house. Croatian wine is really good too. Did I mention how much I like Hungarian wine? In fact, I’m having some right now. Our hotel in Budapest is owned in part by a Hungarian winery – Juhasz. We partook on a few occasions, and received as a parting gift, a bottle of their Merlot Rosé. Yum! We loved that hotel – comfortable, great location, ample breakfast – including their light and lovely Muscat – and very friendly staff. I was about ready to move in.

So, I’ve morphed from Zagreb to Budapest. S’okay. I now have an enduring love of Central Europe. Tomorrow we leave for the Dalmatia Coast on the Adriatic sea. So excited to shed some clothes!

I don’t like to start off on a negative slant, but that is how Budapest presented upon arrival at the train station. No signage. Dark. Dirty. Raining. Walking from the train station to our hotel was utterly lacking in charm. Poor Budapest has an old forlorn decay about it. Buildings have some architectural interest, but minimally, and are worn, peeling, and tired. That being said we have enjoyed our time here. Ed\Charlie is masterful at figuring out the transit system and lazy me is happy for it.

Three days is never enough. Here are some highlights from Monday:

After Parliament we happened upon a riverside shrine to the Jews and the Holocaust. It’ll always make me cry. I had not heard of te Arrow Cross Party before.

After a refreshing break of cake and a cortado (for me) and beer (for Ed) we descended into the underground world of the labyrinths.

The labyrinths lay under the Buda Castle complex (14th century) and extend for several miles in all directions. Initially, naturally formed by rushing thermal waters, they were used as shelter and for food storage and as a water source. Nowadays you can wander them looking for buried Turkish treasure (supposedly) or hoping for an otherworldly experience. While most is dimly lit, there is a section that is completely, I mean completely, dark. You feel your way by fingertips. Crazy spooky fun.

A bit of Budapest at sun down:

Okay, last thought for the night: lots of people here are wearing heavy winter coats. Fur collars and cuffs. Wool. Mega heavy sweaters. I wonder. What the hell are they wearing when winter actually descends?!

On our first day in Prague I received an email from a friend I had not seen since 2016 or 2017, the last time she was in Albuquerque. Catherine Carr reached out wondering if I truly was in Prague as she was also! Wow. Her friend Ronnie, living in Stuttgart was also here visiting her. We arranged to meet at the Prague castle on Friday morning. After touring the castle complex (largest IN THE WORLD) we had lunch at the oldest pub in Prague. The dark lower environ seen below.

We spent hours at the castle viewing it, St. Vitus Cathedral, and Golden Row, this last a row of tiny living spaces where workers of the day would have lived: seamstress, goldsmith… Basically they were two small rooms with the basics. Quite cozy looking actually. The largest and most resplendent belonged to Mathilde…a prominent seer of the day. Amazing she was revered and not killed as a witch.

Along this row also was a museum of torture and knights’ armor and weapons. Being up close and being able to guage the weight of a lead, spiked ball and the size of a spear really brings home the reality of hand-to-hand combat

A few photos of St. Vitus Cathedral

Catherine, Ronnie and the two of us met again Friday night to bid adieu to Prague and one another at the Hemingway bar.

I can’t begin to extoll the beauty and charm of Prague. I started with that and I end with that.

First, a correction: autocorrect changed the name of the river in Prague. It is Vltava, not Vitals!

This may be the most beautiful city I’ve ever experienced. I do wonder though if I’ve said that before and about which city. Still, there’s something about Prague. It would take me a thousand words times a thousand. So I’ll allow photos to do the telling. In addition, we’ve been on the go go go and there’s just too much to recount. Captions will capture the essence.

River views

Rooftop views

Architectural Details from Old Clock Tower, 14th Century, below

The Customs House is a gorgeous building housing two concert venues and is home to the Prague Philharmonic Orchestra. Part of it has designs by Alphonse Mucha, progéniture of the Arte Nouveau movement. We were fortunate that an exhibition of the largest collection of his original posters was there. The exhibition included the animation of some of his works. It was extensive; he was a master with technical skill as well as creative skill. He’s one of my favorites. You can see how the wild posters of the 60s grew out of Mucha’s musings and designs.

Mucha’s posters

A little bit of info about Mucha

A little bit more

Art Nouveau in the Sts. Peter and Paul Basilica – I just love the colors.

A divergent note as I get into bed…so far at the three hotels we’ve been in – Berlin Prague Budapest – the bed covers are the same: a white quilted blanket, enclosed in a white duvet, folded in four and laid upon the bed. It’s lightweight yet warm. And so much easier for housekeeping!

Speaking of hotels…a favorite aspect of traveling is the surprise of the hotel. Despite photos on the website, you’re never quite sure what you’re in for. In Berlin the room was tiny – and a model of exacting use of space. It had a modern-esque Bauhaus vibe. It worked. Especially for just one night. Plus two bottles of water gratis.

Prague was a roomy room on a quiet side street. Toilet in a separate room from the sink and tub. Windows that open! This is an old world hotel resplendent with burnished wood and a homey feel.

Here in Budapest we are in a Smart Hotel. Thoroughly modern with a light system that is too smart for us. A wall panel controls the lights and the heat. Only problem is, we can’t figure out how to turn off the motion sensor for the bathroom light. The room is larger than Berlin and smaller than Prague, using the cool colors of grey, white, and subdued turquoise.

All in all they always work. Except when they don’t, like that time in Oaxaca by the beach which was absolutely gross and we had to find a new place.

Anyway, moving on. Maybe we’d both like a break. I hope you enjoyed the photos. There’s more to come!

Traveling from Berlin to Prague on train 379 today. The ride is smooth and quiet. We are paralleling the Elbe which sits in a basin, land rising on either side of us, especially to the north\northeast. Homes hug the bit of property by the river and some climb the hillside. Old world buildings, or maybe just European style make them seem old world, jostle for position in limited space.

And just like that, the terrain changes. Cliffs are gone, hillsides not as steep remain. Now there is more room for grassy areas. This occured right around the time we left Germany and entered the Czech Republic. Geography is curious that way. Or maybe it just makes sense borderwise.

Have you ever been so tired that your phone fell out of your hand while you were researching something? Last night we discovered that the train from Budapest to Split, Croatia that we planned to take had disappeared from the schedule. Alternatives had to be arranged. But not right then. Or maybe we did decide. I’m all ferklumtenfugen after two overnight flights and wandering NYC after no sleep at all on that leg. 

As I had no photos from the train, I proffer this, a beer we shared on the train.

The four and a half hour train ride was soothing, relaxing, and passed by quickly. Prague is the most beautiful city I’ve been in ever. There’s a reason both Stalin and Hitler never gave orders to bomb it. If that doesn’t give you some sense of humanity in all the madness of the world, nothing will.

Here are some Prague photos:

And thus ends my first post of this trip. Unlike Charlie, I’m able to sleep, and looking forward to it right now.

Bonjour! Gosh, it was grand to spend two weeks in that sunny, humid, flowery state. We left April 26 and returned May 10. It’s not a bad drive from the Q – about two 8 hour days of driving. We spent the one overnight in Gainesville, TX which has a sweet old downtown and a neighborhood of stately old manses, too large too capture with my phone. Of course, it was tempting to look at real estate. But we do that everywhere we go. One interesting site was seeing two cars, full of burly guys, driving slowly down the street admiring the architecture as we were. Or maybe they were casing the joints.

Why didn’t I post while we were in Louisiana? IDK. You wouldn’t think that walking and dancing my feet ragged for hours on end in the sun and humidity would take it out of me that much. Certainly not more than walking 10-12-15 miles a day with an 18 pound pack would. But it seems to have done. Well, I was younger then and hadn’t yet fallen 12 feet and broken a bunch of bones. Any excuse.

You might be interested in the different pedometer step count between Charlie\Ed and moi. His might say 12,000 and mine 22,000. I figure I walked about 5 miles and danced 6!

Okay, but I’ve been home almost a week! What gives? I’ll tell ya. I brought the Rona home with me. Not to worry, though. It appears to be a mild case. Started Thursday afternoon with sore-ish throat and fatigue. Friday, a full blown headache, body aches, and mega fatigue. Saturday, most of that gone, some residual fatigue left behind and the development of bronchitis. I’ve been treating that with a nebulizer and using hydroxychloroquine for the Rona. I’m feeling aok in general, but still taking it easy.

Now, for the main event!

I didn’t take many photos in Lafayette or Breaux Bridge. Didn’t really see much more of Lafayette than the festival venue. Except, we did visit a museum about the Acadians, those who came from Canada after they were forced out of the Nova Scotia area when the English took control sometime in the 1600s. The history was well presented through photos, artifacts, and a rather cheesy and in need of editing movie. The English were quite brutal during the removal process, separating men from their families. Holding them prisoner. Then forcing women and children on ships, separate from the men, and trying to unload them in various colonies. Some would not allow them to land. Others did and forced them into slavery or indentured servitude. And others made their way to Louisiana where over time they came to be know as Cajuns.

Some New Orleans architecture, though none of the greatbigbeautiful home of the Garden District, cuz they’re just too much!

Intriguing bits and pieces…

Musicians

Et toi!

This is a minute fraction of the many acts we experienced. Samantha Fish! Billy Strings!  Cory Ledet, Cimafunk, Sonny Landreth, see any of them if you get a chance. We also heard the Preservation Hall Jazz band who will be playing at summer fest at Domingo Baca Park. So much more than I expected. Do go! (Those of you in Albuquerque…)

It was a resounding and rewarding experience to be at the Jazz Festival. We’re glad we did it. I wouldn’t dissuade anyone from going. And, it’s probably the only time we’ll get the 4 day pass. It’s so intense with the heat, the size of the place, the people. Not discounting a day or two though! Definitely going to New Orleans again. The weekend before the Lafayette fest is the French Quarter festival and it’s free, as is the Lafayette fest. Jazz is pretty pricey for the 4 days – but there’s so much included: aside from 13 stages of varying sizes, there’s the food courts (surprisingly good food and not super jacked pricing), and part of ticket price supports free music lessons and the free festivals, like the one in the French Quarter.

Second Line

Local Spots

Part deux, mañana

No, no, not a car accident, thanks be. Whiplash from our on again, off again feelings about moving. Or at least moving here. After a week and a half, lots of driving,  visiting communities, and touring homes – both in person, online, and drive-bys – we have determined that this is not the place, or maybe it isn’t the time.

Reasons: population density became more apparent. We see lots and lots of construction, especially of townhomes and condos in every town we’ve been in. Housing market is tight with many bidders raising the cost. Houses here are often too large or too small. It’s amazing how many 3 bedroom, 1 bath homes there are. Most homes are 2 stories with rooms on the main level being rather small.  We’d prefer 1 level.

We haven’t given up completely, just for now.

Today we drove out Lexington way. Gosh, the farms visible from the highway are grand. We enjoyed wine (me) and beer (Ed) at Great Farm Winery and Brew in Lexington and also at Rockbridge in Raphine.

Lest you think we are dilletantes interested solely in the fermented fruits of the area, here are a few photos from Natural Bridge, a state park.

Driving out this way we were once again reminded of why we love the area! We plan to return in spring or autumn. Maybe the market will be different then. Plus, we’d just live to be here during more hospitable climes. Last October seemed ideal.

We’ll be home this Sunday evening.

Since we are in the area, it seemed appropriate that we attend the “March to Defeat the Mandates”. A two hour drive to Vienna, then a 20-30 minute metro ride to the Smithsonian. We walked from the Washington monument to the Lincoln Memorial with several thousand others who believe in freedom of choice. Who don’t buy the legacy media and government narrative that is being promulgated and pushed to the point of people proselytizing. (I was getting into the p alliterative there.) Making a point.

I mean, we should have the option of saying ‘no’ to the inoculation. It’s not effective against anyone getting covid. I’m all for the right to get it – the vax, i mean not covid. And for one’s right to decline. Personally, I know more people who have had adverse affects from the vax, than have been seriously stricken with covid. And I know people who have been inoculated who had severe reaction to contracting covid post vax. There are thousands who have had severe reactions to the inoculation. You won’t hear about that on major media though.

Yes, millions have been vaxxed without issue. It doesn’t validate a mandate for a vax that doesn’t prevent contraction or transmission.

There were many marching for freedom of choice. Progressive moms for choice. Vaxxed democrats for choice. My body, my choice, men and women for choice. Businesses against segregation of who is and who isn’t.

There were vaxxed people speaking about the negative health repercussions of the vax. For example: an emergency room doc suffering from numbness and pain; a professional trick bike rider weakened from myocarditis. They can no longer do the work they love. They have no recourse given that the pharmaceutical companies have been given a free pass under emergency use authorization.

Several doctors who have been vocal about the problems of the inoculation spoke. One of whom, Dr. Robert Malone, contributed to the mRNA vaccine, has been very outspoken. Dr. Peter Koury spoke; he testified to Congress about the problems of the vax. BTW, that video has been removed from YouTube.

Many other doctors have signed on. Many more fear speaking out due to negative employment repercussions. Really, how can so many of our medical front line workers have gone from hero to zero in so little time? Our military personnel, willing to give their lives for our country, booted from service.

This for an illness from which 99% recover. For an illness that has known treatments that cost little.

Also speaking was Bobby Kennedy, Jr who is with Children’s Health Defense. He made some important points regarding the loss of many of our constitutional rights under covid lockdown and restrictions. He also made a controversial analogy between Ann Frank hiding in an attic and the encroachment of surveillance on our lives. Don’t allow coverage focusing on that alone to deter you from other crucial aspects of his message. (Should you listen to his speech…)

Finally, a number of religious leaders from various faiths spoke, for instance: Rizza Islam; Rabbi Zev Epstein; Rev. Aaron Lewis. Agree with them or not, they all have a perspective worth hearing.

It was a friendly crowd. It was a thoughtful crowd. It was a group of people united against suppression of information and for open discussion. It was a pro science crowd.

That’s my report from the capitol.